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**twcfc3s** · 07-29-2004, 01:28 AM

no comments...

**DriftGirl** · 07-29-2004, 07:36 AM

That ones gonna havta be left up to u. BUD Sponsors a million sporting events, cars even individuals. Just because people see BUD on the side of a NASCAR car doesnt mean that makes them drink and drive.

But, on the other hand.............

Hard choice to make.

**mranlet** · 07-29-2004, 08:55 AM

#1 belongs in off topic, and to quote SMC "alcohol has no business around cars"

#2 is yes, I've made body kits in the past and am working on starting my own company by doing so.
If you make a form and then lay the glass on top of that, your result will be a piece that is bigger than the form by 1/8 to 1/4 inch everywhere, which will fit like crap on your car. The fiberglass will also be so rough that the time you spend sanding it down to be smooth woulc earn you enough money at your job to buy one from somewhere else.
If you're really thinking about doing this the right way, estimate that you will need about $80 in fiberglass, resin, brushes, gloves, respirator, mold release wax, and laquer thinner. That is assuming that you already have a form to work from...

If you want to make a body kit that's great, but make sure you know what you're getting yourself in to. If you have a car that has body kits available for it already, you'll be much better just buying one. If not, let me know what you've got and maybe we could make something for it (I'm going to be making a full body kit for Soultron's Chevette if we ever get togteher to make some templates or molds).

**nedinic** · 07-29-2004, 09:45 AM

yea its totally up to you i dont know what to say
but this guy down the road has a golf gte 1991 and he made his own bumper.

**nissanguy_24** · 07-29-2004, 09:55 AM

As for the liquir store. my feelings were already stated but it is your uncle. Im a big fan of family loyalty and loyalty in general so its just going to be your descision man. I feel very strongly about it though and im not sure i could do it.

And to MR. PM me man, i want to know what it would cost you to produce full silvia front pieces if you had the OEM pieces to work with. I believe theres a big market for inexpensive OEM type silvia front ends. Especialy if there lighter.

**IzzyTrippin** · 07-29-2004, 11:44 AM

Well for the fiberglass, it's not just a body kit i'm considering. I have been considering a onboard PC with engine management. and I figured while I'm at it I could add an area for gauges by redoing the dashboard in fiberglass... think knight rider, but not as much overkill. it's just an idea at this stage, both items are, thats why I brought it open for discussion.

Dash example seen at:
http://www.markscustomkits.com/

by the way, foam can be "cut" with acetone or keytone, then sanded smooth

**Craftsman** · 07-29-2004, 11:33 PM

Originally posted by nissanguy_24
As for the liquir store. my feelings were already stated but it is your uncle. Im a big fan of family loyalty and loyalty in general so its just going to be your descision man. I feel very strongly about it though and im not sure i could do it.

And to MR. PM me man, i want to know what it would cost you to produce full silvia front pieces if you had the OEM pieces to work with. I believe theres a big market for inexpensive OEM type silvia front ends. Especialy if there lighter.

You can get stuff made from Taiwan dude... Aftermarket OEM parts that body shops use... Very cheap... If you can get one if them to import the Siliva parts, we're in business.

Matt.

**LexmarkX73** · 07-29-2004, 11:47 PM

as for question one, go for it a sponsor is a sponsor (unless the sponsor is something illegal)

question 2....

i belive i did quite well on mine

j/k

**IzzyTrippin** · 07-29-2004, 11:56 PM

If flair and style are part of the judging process, wouldn't a car labeled as "GODLOVE'S LIQUORS" on the sides stir a commotion and assist in points due to crowd response?

Just a thought. a LATE night thought at that... (2:55 AM my time)

**mranlet** · 07-30-2004, 05:49 AM

Originally posted by IzzyTrippin
Well for the fiberglass, it's not just a body kit i'm considering. I have been considering a onboard PC with engine management. and I figured while I'm at it I could add an area for gauges by redoing the dashboard in fiberglass... think knight rider, but not as much overkill. it's just an idea at this stage, both items are, thats why I brought it open for discussion.

Dash example seen at:
http://www.markscustomkits.com/

by the way, foam can be "cut" with acetone or keytone, then sanded smooth

Dude, I would totally love to have a Night Rider dash!

The picture that is on the left about halfway down the page is of the "buck" which is what they form the mold from (or should to maintain the right size). I guess if you were doing a dash you could just build up on the existing dash, make your piece and then sand the crap out of it or fill it in with bondo. Fitment on large interios parts like dashes and rear decks isn't all that precise, or at least not as precise as bumpers and exterior parts that have to match coutours - I would say you could do it on your own for $100 if you spend carefully. Polystyrene foam, a serated kitchen knife, some rough-grit sand paper and some bondo are about all you'd need to make the buck. From there it's just a matter of waxing, resining, laying up, and busting it all loose.

Also, the method they're using on this website is "blown" fiberglass, where the resin is sprayed on to the mold and chopped strand mat is layed over top. Doing fiberglass this way is totally superior to laying it by hand, which just plain sucks. However, a mold can get very distorted with improper technique while blowing fiberglass.

SMC - for stock OEM body panels, importing them will most likely be cheaper, but for fiberglass ones or conversions...

...check your PM's

**LAPD** · 07-30-2004, 07:05 AM

Ive had my share of fiberglass and to do the dash would be simple.
Remove the existing one and use it to make the female mold for the one you will make.
To do this cover it with plastic or if you nolonger care for it just wax it but donot remove the wax after it drys. Then lay down the gell coat with a brush.
Cheep trick for tight spots is lots of gell coat to fill them in. Bad result of it is that the gell coat can and will crumble there. Cheep body kits are famous for that. After your gell coat is hard you can apply the fiberglass. A coat of cloth followed by a coat of mat followed by another coal of cloth.
To ceep you mold rigid you will want to lay in some bracing. Aliminum, wood, or even heavy cardboard tubes will work. With these inplace you will need to cover them with two to three coats of mat to make the whole thing rigid. You need to lay this up all at once and dont have time to cut and form as you go so plan and prepare your materials before you start.
After this has all dried you will need to remove the old dash from your mold. It might pop out it might need some help. A blow gun works sometimes to. After you have relesed from your mold you will have a exact female mold of the original peice. You need to check it for flaws and fix any then you can make your first plug.

Wax the mold as you did the first time. Apply the gel coat and wait for it to harden then lay in the cloth, mat, cloth formula again and wait for it to dry. If your thinking you can put relese ports in to the mold so you can pop the plug out.
When this one comes out you will have a fiberglass copy of your dash. You can use it like that or build to or take away with fiberglass to customize it to suit your needs.

Have fun Ill tell ya how to not itch later.

**IzzyTrippin** · 07-30-2004, 07:35 AM

Originally posted by mranlet
...check your PM's

Who's PM's? I just checked, I got no messages waiting there.

By the way, I do know there is a product that works quite well on similiar mold release applications...

PAM, nonstick cooking spray.

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