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battery question

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  • battery question

    I'm buying a Optima battery but is the Red top good enough or the Yellow top is more better ?

  • #2
    If theres a diffence itd prolly be CCA(cold cranking amps) which im assuming you know what your car calls for.

    Also its bad grammer to say more better...


    • #3
      Originally posted by panda_3ight_6
      Also its bad grammer to say more better...



      • #4
        I'm not too sure what the difference is precisely, but I think that it depends on what your application is... I think that the red top is more better for performance (lighter weight, CCA) while the yellow top is more better for stereos and accessories.

        If you're looking for the most performance with lowest weight, you might be able to find a motoycycle battery that is strong enough for your car, which be most bestest.

        The Mostest bestest way to find out would probably be to E-mail the folks at Optima.

        (how about them beans panda?)



        • #5
          Ok I have a kinda serious question...

          Hows do I make a Battry relocation kit?

          Correct me if im wrong but heres what i came up with for a kit.

          The mostest bestest battry for my car...
          A custom Fab'ed Sheet Metal Box
          Big Fat Battry Cables
          anything else??


          • #6
            Not Starting

            Last night my car wouldnt start at all, so I had to push start it like three times (quite embarrassing if ur on a date!). Then today it started up right away and i drove it to kragen to get the battery checked, but they were too busy. It started up perfectly and i went to a car repair place and they were too busy. But then it just clicked like last night. Any suggestions? I have 2 amps one @150watts and 1 @550 watts. stock battery, alternator and a starter (six months old). Please help.


            • #7
              Bettery Relocation:
              1-Buy the bestest most awesomest battery for your car
              2-take the box that it came in to Wal-Mart or Target and find a rubbermaid trash can that will fit the battery
              3-Cut the can down and save a piece to be the lid if you want one. Any dollar store will have dog collars which you can cut up and use as latches (pop riveting works best)
              4-Find a place for the box (many people like to use the spare tire compartment, but I find that behind the passenger wheel well or seat works to balance the car latterally) and see if there's a Negative charged pickup point nearby.
              5-You can either pop-rivet the box to it's place or L-bracket it into place with self-tapping screws (but watch out for electrical or fuel lines)
              6-If you have battery cables, that's great, but an amp wiring kit will work just as well. Cut the + terminal off of the OEM lead and secure it to the amp wire. Run the positive wire through the firewall and splice it onto the OEM lead. You can probably just move the entire negative lead and terminal to wherever your battery is and attach it to the frame somewhere where it will get a good connection. If not, then do the same for the - that you did for the +.

              For 240SXdrifter - You may have a parasitic draw, or you may have a faulty connection with your alternator. If your car started before then it probably isn't your starter motor, but check it with a good battery anyway (if you have one). The click is most likely the solenoid on the starter engaging the drive mechanism, but the battery not having enough amps to turn the flywheel. Check both of your amps to see that the remote lead is connected properly and that it it is connected to your cd player or disc changer properly as well. Neither of your amps should have any lights lit if they're off, but they may still be drawing some current.

              It is also possible that perhaps your battery isn't holding a charge, or that water may be shorting the system, or that it is low on acid (if it's the kind that takes acid).

              If you have more specifics (whether amps have been installed by you or a shoop, whether they have lights, whether you have a multimeter, age of the battery, etc) then we all may be able to help you more.

              Don't sweat the problems, this happens to everyone sooner or later...



              • #8
                The entire system was installed by a shop about a year ago. The battery is at least a year old. There are no lights on the amps, and i dont know what a multimeter is? The thing is though if i let it sit overnight or at school for about 6 hours it will start right up. But if i have to stop the car for a few minutes, it will not start back up.


                • #9
                  hmmn.... that is weird....

                  It's probably not a parasitic draw then, but maybe a problem with something else...

                  If you want to AIM me, my name is CRUNCHmonster... I'll have to think about it

                  What kind of car is it?



                  • #10
                    Originally posted by 240sxdrifter
                    The entire system was installed by a shop about a year ago. The battery is at least a year old. There are no lights on the amps, and i dont know what a multimeter is? The thing is though if i let it sit overnight or at school for about 6 hours it will start right up. But if i have to stop the car for a few minutes, it will not start back up.

                    Your having a hot start issue. Basicly your wires are getting warm from running, the hotter the wires the more resistant they are to electricity, I was having the same problem with my 240sx, It was a cheap battery. So i used a relay and basicly set it up so when i turn the key the relay goes off the connects the battery directly to the starter with a nice thick cable. Never had a problem with it sence, and its been a year.

                    I should correct that, my father an automotive electrician did that while i watched. and tried to learn.

                    EDIT: What i should say is SOUNDS like your having a hot start issue.. not you are deffenately.
                    Last edited by nissanguy_24; 02-08-2004, 11:29 PM.


                    • #11
                      are your cables tight? are they coroded? Use baking soda and water to clean the terminals and battery posts. Use a terminal brush and clean both with that after the soda and water. Use greese on the posts, and replace the connecters, and tighten. Maybe when the car is hot the cables also expand and you are not getting a good connection.


                      • #12
                        Thanks for your input. I am going to put in an Optima battery ASAP.


                        • #13
                          Red top is for performacne, yellow is for show, blue is for boats and stuff? Summit racing has abttery relocate kits.


                          • #14
                            the colore denotes the cca in size like 880cca and so forth for a complete listing and what they are used for go to the Optima web site


                            • #15
                              power drain

                              There is a test called a parasitic draw test. This will allow you to isolate the circuit that is drawing power even though you believe everything is off. This requires a basic tester light so you can monitor any change in battery voltage. Watch the light while you remove the fuses one at a time. When the light brightness decreases, you have found the draw. Now that you know the circuit, you can chase down the problem with your meter. You can also check by putting an ampmeter in series with your fully charged battery, with everything switched off, and see if any power is being drawn (allow a little bit for the clock + radio). Make sure all your doors are closed.
                              Esp. check your headlight switch (fuses under hood). If it is, take off the steering wheel column cover. check the connection. These tend to go bad over time. mine was toasted at the switch & at the connector. had to splice a new connector at the harness & the switch. Mine was causing my 1000 amp battery to die in a couple of days!

                              light is much dimmer. now i have a pulse, thinking from the alarm, but also draws from the horn on my racing wheel.
                              Last edited by ; 09-02-2008, 07:20 PM.