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  • Fc3s problems

    im having some trouble with holding my drifts, i can get sideways and hold it but after i ease out the drift that i started at 35 ish miles an hour, im doin about 10 and i have not enough momentum to throw myself in another. idk i havent expirimented much due to fear of breaking the damned thing, seeing how ive had so many problems in the first place

  • #2
    well one thing I noticed with my fc is that I have to be going pretty fast into the corner due to the lack of torque. I also had to start clutch kicking depending on the corner, needless to say these techniques pissed me off so I went turbo haha

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    • #3
      Try keeping your revs a little higher and see what happens i own an fc and thats what i have to do also are you e-braking to induce the drift? if so you might be holding the brake a little to long also i recommened getting the dtss eliminator kit from mazdatrix or racing beat it helps quite abit with stabilizing the car, at least fro me anyways... matt

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      • #4
        heres my advice, stay away from clutch kicking, tranny goes out fast on the fcs and can be very costly. ebrake is very useful for fcs. as for dtss elminators, its not necessary, but essential. i know some ppl who can drift with dtss. and throttle control is very important on fcs. try practicing your throttle control while losing traction. rx7s dont have much torque to begin with so youll be doing a lot of acceleration based drifts.

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        • #5
          yea i havent been using the ebrake at all until yesterday, ive been doin clutch kicks . and yes my transmition has gone out once before....... pain in the browneye. but ebraking through the turn is helping a little bit, i can keep alot more forward motion than before. im still scared of holding revs as high as i have been. is there anyway to give the lil 13b a massive torque jump without a turbo. im trying to stay n/a for reliablity issues.

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          • #6
            you could go with a streetport or maybe a bridgeport if your a gambling man, but I would suggest a streetport. should give you anywhere from 40 to 80 hp depending on how you do it. A bridgeport is a lot riskier. if you don't want to do that, you may just go forced induction.

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            • #7
              what mods do you currently have? intake and header for starters, if you dont care about noise levels try running off to the presilencer only, screw the exhausts. run some good redline oil and for faster throttle response, and if your lucky to be able to spend some more, try porting the throttle body. those are some inexpensive upgrades youd definitely appreciate

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              • #8
                porting the TB wont do much at all and its a hassel, and if done wrong can actually make you lose power... in my old GXL i had intake, 2.5 all the way back, REDLINE fluid everything, cut springs, and the RB rear tow eliminators (such a pain to install) pretty good with these minor mods

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                • #9
                  yes cut the springs 'cause thats such a good thing to do.

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                  • #10
                    I've never driven a rx-7, so I'm not too familar with the power out characteristis. However, I'd assume the techniques required would be similar to any low powered car. There are several posts already on this, and you should have a good amount of useful info to read through.

                    The jist is basically this:
                    -keep momentum as you'll need it
                    -don't be affraid to be heavy on the throttle, you may find that you're pegging it from beggining to end(although let off if the rear is getting out too far)
                    -don't be affraid to be rough with the throttle either(any way you can think of-I'm a pumping fan, er maybe quick stabbing, lol)
                    -keep drifts shallow and fast as opposed to high-angled and slow, it's not as pretty, but it won't drain speed like the high angled stuff, requires better control though
                    -work on techniques that allow you to maximize entry speed and get sideways before the corner, sometimes a little hard to maintain through the corner if power isn't there. Try braking into the corner, come in fast and brake lightly through the first part of the corner-rear end should come out and entry should be faster than normal. Feint is good too for a non-slowing method. Flick the rear out to get the drift started and just gas it after.
                    -steering is imortant too as it can help deter or assist the rear end sliding. Try steering into the corner a little more to bring the rear end out under throttle. As well, instead of catching the rear end with throttle letoff, catch it with more countersteer to keep power up.

                    There's lots of small things you can do to help keep speed and keep a drift going. Those are just some things off the top of my head. Search for other posts on the same/similar subjects. There's a lot of useful information on this board if you do some looking, some real gems too.

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                    • #11
                      When I had my FC, I found the e-brake to work really well. My FC was really slow and had a lot of miles on the engine so any drift above 40 mph, I would initiate with feint or e-brake and would keep it floored through the whole turn, I didn't need to feather the throttle at all. And it drifted decently, even though it had cut springs. Later I got a welded gxl diff for it and that didn't seem to help at all, probably cuz it was welded.

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                      • #12
                        The FC is a very capable drift car, due to its excellent stabilty and predictablity, it just takes alot of getting use to and driver control.

                        One of the problems with the FCs is that the Ebrake does not fully function while the vehicle is in motion, so you need to rely more on throttle and steering control. Proper setup will also determine how the car reacts to your input. Power helps, but is not a necessity.

                        What mods do you have on the car right now? As side from replacing your worn out bushings or other parts here are a few things I recommend to start with:
                        -Toe Cancelors (no more rear steer, yay!)
                        -Rear Camber Adjuster (remove all the remove camber, since lack of power)
                        -SuperNow! Steering angle kit (gives more steering angle)

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                        • #13
                          are DTTS bushings the same as toe cancelers? if not are DTTS bushings a good idea?

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                          • #14
                            well so far, all i have on it are front and rear sway bars, and a racing seat and harness... i have orderd my pacesetter header and corksport catback exhaut and 80mm test pipe to kill the cat. i do have the auto adjusting suspension that came with the car is that worth a damn or just an attempt at a sales boost?

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by driftex
                              are DTTS bushings the same as toe cancelers? if not are DTTS bushings a good idea?
                              the DTTS system is what causes the rear to toe-in under load, the toe-eliminators replace the bushings thus no more toe-in when you dont want it. I'll cause more grip but more control during a drift.

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