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"DRIFT TRUCK" Im gonna Do It!!! Goods and Bads?

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  • Originally posted by Toycoma View Post
    I plan on running the star stockers or what ever they are called once I have the money. I plan on getting the double adjustable shocks though. I am sticking with leaf springs because of the classes I want to run in autox and maybe time attack.
    Trying to stay in a "street" type class?

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    • yeah. SM2 for autox. Plus I can go turbo in that class.

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      • I agree that the KA is the better choice. And there's nothin wrong with the single cam, and I'll kill anyone who says there is . But in all seriousness, I think it would work great. The main thing that'll make things a little difficult is finding a wiring harness in reasonable condition. Damn things are hard to find these days.

        One question I have though. what will droping the front end do to the linkage. I've no experience with it myself, but I've read that lowering a vehicle too much can make some of the angles on everything too extreme and can cause both strength and hadeling issues. I'm just curious if that has any validity in this case being as you're lowering something that was allready pretty tall to begin with (at least compared to a car).

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        • Originally posted by eomund240 View Post
          One question I have though. what will droping the front end do to the linkage. I've no experience with it myself, but I've read that lowering a vehicle too much can make some of the angles on everything too extreme and can cause both strength and hadeling issues. I'm just curious if that has any validity in this case being as you're lowering something that was allready pretty tall to begin with (at least compared to a car).
          It can, but I can take and shim the UCAs to correct for camber (no drilling required!! poking fun at the McPherson Strut guys). Steering angle, however will be affected and bump steer will be a problem, unless I swap to a 2" spindle, which raises the kingpin up 2" which lowers the front 2" and keeps all of the mounting points the same.

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          • yup, beat me too it. Most trucks can be lowered 5-6 inches easily by installing a drop spindle and some kind of lowering spring.

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            • Originally posted by Justin Banner View Post
              It can, but I can take and shim the UCAs to correct for camber (no drilling required!! poking fun at the McPherson Strut guys). Steering angle, however will be affected and bump steer will be a problem, unless I swap to a 2" spindle, which raises the kingpin up 2" which lowers the front 2" and keeps all of the mounting points the same.
              would the spindles be custom built?? If yes, you can also plan to have the steering knuckle shorted where the tie rod bolts to the spindle so you can then increase steering angle.

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              • Originally posted by Toycoma View Post
                would the spindles be custom built?? If yes, you can also plan to have the steering knuckle shorted where the tie rod bolts to the spindle so you can then increase steering angle.
                I've been debating on custom spindles. I can go to Stock Car Products and get on made between $240-250. However, it would probably be made for a 5 on 5 hub. I'm going to contact them to be sure, though, but that will also be a couple of months away.

                Just a note, for lowering spindle that is cast made is $275.

                Also, since you guys have more experience on KA24DEs, I have a line on one in Winston Salem, but has spun the bearing on #4. Is this actually all that's going to be wrong or are there going to be more problems? I know a spun bearing can be fixed and be fine if I replace all of the bearings, but will there be any specific problems I need to be concerned about.

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                • Well, It's all about how much you're willing to pay. Depending on what you're spending on this one (I'm hoping it's dirt cheap), a spun bearing as you said isn't all that big of a problem. You can however get a good running one for seriously like 300 bucks if you want to start with something a little better. Check around on some forums a bit just to get an idea of what's out there if you're curious at all about it.

                  One thing to consiter though, if you're getting this engine for pretty much nothin', you have one big plus in your favor. You have the chance to take an engine rebuild to the next step. Pistons, rods, even a port and polish job if you're up to it.

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                  • Originally posted by eomund240 View Post
                    Well, It's all about how much you're willing to pay. Depending on what you're spending on this one (I'm hoping it's dirt cheap), a spun bearing as you said isn't all that big of a problem. You can however get a good running one for seriously like 300 bucks if you want to start with something a little better. Check around on some forums a bit just to get an idea of what's out there if you're curious at all about it.

                    One thing to consiter though, if you're getting this engine for pretty much nothin', you have one big plus in your favor. You have the chance to take an engine rebuild to the next step. Pistons, rods, even a port and polish job if you're up to it.
                    I'm trying to get it as a trade for my two VG30Es (one complete, one spare) plus cash.

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                    • I don't know how available KA's are in your area, but it kinda sounds like he's getting the better end of the deal (If you're the one fronting the cash I mean). Just my opinion though. Out of curiosity, are you getting a 5 speed with it too?

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                      • Originally posted by eomund240 View Post
                        I don't know how available KA's are in your area, but it kinda sounds like he's getting the better end of the deal (If you're the one fronting the cash I mean). Just my opinion though. Out of curiosity, are you getting a 5 speed with it too?
                        Yeah, I'm getting the money.

                        No transmission, but I've been told that KA D21 transmissions will bolt up to S13/14 engines.

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                        • Ah, okay, If that's the case it's more on the fair side. I think you're right on the tranny bolt up. Infact I think, don't quote me on this, even the bellhousing will bolt up. Main reason I ask is the trucks more often than not are running a wide ratio 4 speed with an overdrive gear, vs the S13's 5 speed.

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                          • Originally posted by eomund240 View Post
                            Ah, okay, If that's the case it's more on the fair side. I think you're right on the tranny bolt up. Infact I think, don't quote me on this, even the bellhousing will bolt up. Main reason I ask is the trucks more often than not are running a wide ratio 4 speed with an overdrive gear, vs the S13's 5 speed.
                            I see. The guy hasn't gotten back to me yet and the forums I'm looking on that would have guys in VA are asking for $5-800 for a good, running KA24DE.

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                            • Depending on the KA, that's a little on the steep side. Around here in Cali they usually go for around $300-$500 give or take. But do keep in mind I paid 800 bucks for a motor 'cause I had a guarantee it had 40,000 miles on it.

                              I think getting one that needs some work is the way to go though, especially with how much work your project will need. It'll give you the opportunity to upgrade while you're in to it.

                              Keep us posted on what you decide.

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                              • Originally posted by eomund240 View Post
                                Depending on the KA, that's a little on the steep side. Around here in Cali they usually go for around $300-$500 give or take. But do keep in mind I paid 800 bucks for a motor 'cause I had a guarantee it had 40,000 miles on it.

                                I think getting one that needs some work is the way to go though, especially with how much work your project will need. It'll give you the opportunity to upgrade while you're in to it.

                                Keep us posted on what you decide.

                                Not sure yet. The engine needs to be bored out .020". That will require new pistons or just rings? It's been so long since I've messed with boring an engine out I've forgot.
                                Last edited by Justin Banner; 03-16-2009, 02:58 PM. Reason: need to re-read IMs

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