Building A D1 Equivalent Car; Costs Involved?

[Ernie]

I don't think your including Ueo's engine....and which car are you talking about? The one he ran in the US or his Japan one? The Japan one is running and independant suspension rear end...this jacks the price up quite a bit.

[sKyLiNeGts-25]

You need brakes!!!!!!

You guys in the states are drifting now more than ever and guess what your going to recking more than ever Dont tell me that your not going to drift in the streets cause they still do street races so ...Just from alittle experience in street drifting everyweekend on the streets of Yokohama,Japan Im telling you brakes play a big factor im running endless brakes right now i picked them up used .....for cheap at Up Garage good deals there so please be careful out there we dont need drifitin to look bad ...keep it real.......---Z--- From Japan....

[SilverGhost]

something you should always keep in mind is this: D1 slide ride = race car. they are not quite as extreme as some, but i would still wager about 60-70k is what each team spends when building their car. Also remember that those cars are fully sponsored, so cost isnt a factor. im sure that if they turned loose a part-by-part cost list for any of those cars, we would shat ourselves.

as for your own 240, if you want an SR, it depends onwhat one you want. sofar i have spent 1400 on a S13 redtop, and its not even at my house yet. and when getting the sr, its a good idea to upgrade stuff such as radiator, intercooler, and fuel pump if need be. why wouldnt you want to do the motor work yourself? trust me, engine stuff is way easier than suspension work. alot on suspension you have to have specialized tools, where as on the motor you can do everything with a rachet, some sockets, a couple extensions, and a screw driver. by doing your own motor swap and mods, you can save lots of money. shops like to charge out the waazoo for modding motors. hoe that helps, good luck to ye

[dae]

ernie - not really sure what car. i think it was in super street but then again they dont always know their ish. basically just pulling that total out of my butt. any idea what his car really cost? (the one he ran at irwindale).

[DV19]

Originally posted by DV19
do you know what the curb weight on a 240 is AND what do you think the D1 guys have got their cars weight's down to (considering cages, carbon body kits, etc.)?

Could anyone out there take a tape measure to their car and tell me what the:
Wheelbase is (front axle center to rear axle center)
Tread width (center of right tire to center of left tire)
Overall body length/width/height

Also, best guestimate, what (besides core charge) would you have to pay to get a 400Hp-ish motor built?

Any chance anybody knows these answers?
Thanks

[SilverGhost]

i can get you the wheel base info tomorrow, i will measure it for you. but its dark right now, and im too tired to do it tonight, but i can do it tomorrow.

[MongolDrifter]

All are 240sx SE specs

Wheelbase:
s13- 97.4
s14- 99.4

Length:
s13- 178
s14- 177.2

Height:
s13- 50.8
s14- 51

Width:
s13- 66.5
s14- 68.1

Curb Weight:
s13(coupe)- 2,712
s13(fastback)- 2,747
s14- 2,760

got it from autotrader.com
hope it helps, Drift On

[prodigy]

Why is Gushi running a less modified car than yours, Ernie? If it has to do with sponsorship politics you don't have to get into to much detail. I guess it really doesn't matter because he still wins. I guess I just want to know.

By the way what break kit do you guys run on your cars? I have been looking at your kit and I was wondering if your companies kit is right for me. I don't know if I want to go with the whole kit or just cross drilled rotors in the front. What pads do you run in your car? Can I run a stock pad with just the cross drilled rotors installed? Any help will be appreciated and by the way see if you can get Gushi on here.

[AlexPfeiffer]

I notice in this thread that most of you are trying to add up the parts you see on D1 cars and think that is the price. Even though the parts on the cars add up, there are still a few things being overlooked.
First is the man hours put into building a car. Just for instance, to strip down a car and built it from scratch usually takes about 300 to 400 man hours. Times that by say a shop fee of about 50 and hour and you have alot.
Another thing is the motors. For instance the motor alone in ueo's car is between 20k to 30k. Alot of the cars are running fully built race preped motors, a resonable long block will run 12k to 18k. When I used to work in AMLS, our motors would cost 60k and last only 30 hours before needing a 35K rebuild.
Body work, grafixs, and image are also important. At that stage of the game you have to have the bling bling kits and many of them ready to zip tie on. Some people may think the cars are all beat up. Your car is your tool and you have to use it. They cant stay perfect for long. But the sponcers and event organisers expect your car to have all the stickers just right and that isnt cheep or easy to keep up.
I just have to say that there is alot of expences that come up you dont really think about. From bling bling things like getting your helmit painted ($400 to $1200+ $600 bucket) to general maintainance and broken parts. Just ask anyone in this game how many trans did they kill and first thing that comes out of there mouth is a laugh cause it happens so much.

Bottom line is it is alot more than you would expect, but you can get by if you need to. Your car is your tool and you dont want to show up to a gun fight with a knife, at least bring a sling shot or some blow darts, or those ninga stars, something you can throw at them so they duck just long enough you can run.

[CRASHDRIVE]

Re: Building A D1 Equivalent Car; Costs Involved?

Originally posted by DV19
***If this has been covered in a previous thread, please refer me to it and I’ll delete this one***

Calling all 240 experts. (Special thanks to nissanguy_24 for the “S-Class” thread. Would love to see more chapters )

So like many people on this board, I’m new to Drifting and I’d like to come and join in. So first things first, I’ve got to get a car. I’m torn between the lighter weight of the S13 and the more modern looks of the S14 **(side note: does anybody know the curb weight & the wheel base on these vehicles?)**.

So once I have the car ($3K-$7K), I can modify at will. Now here’s my question:
I’m sitting here looking at pics from Irwindale & Laguna and I’d like to know (with reasonable assurity), to build a comparable car to those competing in the D1 events, what will I end up spending?

I know I can compete in drift events in “stock” form and I will (at first). BUT, I also know that down the road as I get better, I’m going to want what Gushi and Kazama have. Can you please give me and the others that are looking at this sport for the 1st/50th time an idea of what you’d have to spend to get:
“Built” Turbo Motor (presumably an SR20DET) with all the goodies (intercooler, harness, etc.)
Tranny and Drivetrain to handle the 400+HP
Purpose built Suspension w/mods for massive steering angle
Carbon Body panels and Aero kit
Interior (cage, seat, etc.)
Anything else I’ve not listed
Wheels and tires

Please guys, understand I'm thinking “long-term” here. I know the steps needed for the driver to get to the D1 level. Assuming as a driver you get to that level, I’m talking just the car. What do those D1 guys have in them $$. Also note that except for the Motor assembly and exterior paint, we’ll handle all the labor ourselves.

Thanks you for your time……..

Are you just wondering how much it cost pro drivers to built their car? or you want to copy their style of car? because pro cars (raced preped cars) are not "long-term" parts and materials. If your building a car to copy theirs it's up to you. But if you want the same parts they have so you can drive better, I think it's a little bit extravagant. Many of amatuers drifters dont need high $ parts to make their car perform better and last longer ("long-term"). It's a preference of the individual and what setting they prefer that makes them perform better and last longer.

So, if your thinking of copying their cars, KUDOs and more power.

But if your thinking of ripping the road and tracks I suggest start "feeling" your car and see what's best for you, not what the marketers says.

FYI: not bashing you with your endeavors, just giving you a little advise
before you start spending all of your $.

good luck.

addition: Also, just to let you know, if you are thinking of actually drifting your car (or touge) make sure you have some money left over, because TIRES are not cheap, tranny is not cheap, fuel is no longer cheap, Control arms break, make sure you have a good contact or supplier for body parts and heat is your enemy.

[SilverGhost]

Re: Re: Building A D1 Equivalent Car; Costs Involved?

Originally posted by CRASHDRIVE
addition: Also, just to let you know, if you are thinking of actually drifting your car (or touge) make sure you have some money left over, because TIRES are not cheap, tranny is not cheap, fuel is no longer cheap, Control arms break, make sure you have a good contact or supplier for body parts and heat is your enemy.

yes, things will break, and tires are expesive. my friend just payed 120 bucks to put 2 of the crappiest tires money can buy around on wheels. and i know i spent almost 2k fixinf my car after i hit a curb in the rain...i wasnt going faster than 20 mph, but it as enough to anialte my control arm and to compress my rack and pinion device. the control arm wasnt that expensive, but the rack cost me 1500 bucks. just keep that in mind

[Poweredby007]

Alot of excellent points have been brought up. Basically, you can only add up how much it is to START a car. As many people mention.. once you start driving it.. its alot of money to keep it running.. so the MONEY is endless until you stop.
My dad always said that the cheapest part of a car is buying it. after that its money money money.

Where I am with my car right now.
1994 S14 Silvia $7000
nis LSD $1000
Zeta III $1000
Harness $ 300
Csc 6pt bar $ 550
Apex PFC $ 900
boost cnt / commander
Momo wheel $ with car
Pivot shifter $ with car
sr20det $ with car
HKS catback $ with car
front/straight pipe $ 50
Silvia breaks $ with car
Aero $ with car
4 17inch wheels $ with car
12 17 spares $ 1500
FMIC $ with car
R34 gtr pump $ 300
ARC air box $ with car
Csc 2R coils $2000
Csc other arms $1500

my brain is fried but thats about what i have right now.. as you notice i have not even TOUCHED inside the engine bay. Total price of parts and car alone basically, 16-17 thou with MANY parts included. I have done all my labor myself.

on my list:
yashio 3 core radiator $400
2835 turbine used with
some trimmings $1000
kouki front $1000
R33 Gtr brembo
F / R calipars $1500
SSR pimp wheels $2000
ect ect ect ... about another
$10,000 in parts
ontop of the rest JUST to get where I want. so thats basically 40Gs ish.

plugs 100 bucks every 3 months
dif oil 30 buck every other month
oil 30 bucks every other month
brake fluid 80 bucks every 6 months
Pads 200 bucks 6~12 months
tires .. hahahaahhahaha not sure how to answer that.
maybe 100~400 bucks depending on month
This is just ME doing this with smal help from others.
not to mention that alignment is 200 bucks in japan for front and rear.

of course with D1 car even MORE shat

[Ernie]

Alex is totally right....Man Hours are the most overlooked cost in the whole game.

Someone asked a ballpark figure on one of the cars we built...I said around 50k and thats just to get it rolling with all the basic requirements. It is much more extreme than Ken's. Ken's reasoning and Rotora's reasoning for building Ken's less aggressive is confidential. One main reason though is the fact that Ken is working his way up to that level. Alex is also right about other costs involved. With higher horsepower comes many other problems....transmissions, axle shafts, drive shafts, loose "K" members (subrame). We constantly ask a lot of our cars, overheat them on a regular basis, and body kits do take a lot of abuse. It all adds up....very fast for some. Take your time and work your way up. You are on the right track by asking some of us who have spent money in the wrong areas already. Its up to you to listen to us or call it BS and throw away your money.

Stick to a stock manifold and possibly a ball-bearing S14 or S15 turbo. Manual boost controller, affordable fuel pump (walbro 255), stock ECU will do the job. Even a stock airflow meter and injectors is sufficient. I will be happy to answer any other questions, but gotta go for now. Laterz, Ernie

[DV19]

Thanks Everyone,

You guys are what motorsports is supposed to be all about. I'm sure everyone (mostly newbi's) have learned a lot for your "words of wisdom." I know I have!

As for me, I have made a living in the "motorsports business" for the past 15 or so years and we have built/campained many a full blow racing effort. Truth is however, not many of them have been based on a production chassis AND they were a very long time ago. My associates and I (like others) have seen the explosion in this segment (drifting) of the industry. We are very interested in what we have seen so far and are excited on where drifting appears to be headed.

I have made enough mistakes in my day to know before you try to reinvent the wheel it's best to talk to the guys that are already doing it the right way. Hence this post. We want to come out of the box on the right foot and while we don't mind a little "learning as we go," the last thing we want to do is waste time and get hooked-up with the wrong people which is code for: wasting money (which is usually harder to come by than time).

I know we won't start with a completely "stock" car, but until we learn a bit more, we won't start with a "full blown fire-breather" either. My goal with this post was to get a good "feel" for what this project could cost when complete. We all know (as many of you have kindly stated here) to go into something of this magnitude with only one eye open is a fools game. While "doing mods as you go" is sometimes less painful, at the end of the year your taxman will be more than willing to tally everything up for you. Money spent little by little is still money spent.

As for the driving side of it, luckily for us that is the easier part. Because driving we know, these cars that are set up in these configurations we don't. Once we get a car that has been baselined by those that are "in the know", it will simply be a matter of learning/practicing with the car to see what it wants so that we can get it to do what we want.......

We have always made it a practice to do a suffitiant amount of chassis development/driver practice before we make our debut in any new series. As again many of you have wisely said, driving prowess is the most important ingredient. The car has to be good, but the driver (if you want to win) has to be better. We're trusting that our past experience will (with some coaching from again "those in the know") shorten our learning curve and help us adapt ourselves to the tire smoking style that has gotten all of us around here so fired-up.

Again I thank you for all your answers to these and the other questions that are sure to follow. We'll do our very best to take heed and not have you want to say, "I told you so".......lol

Best of luck to all of you.............