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  • #16
    I am not biased toward american stuff. I would like nothing more than a c6 corvette right now. But I am not down with throwing "big blocks" in japanese cars that werent built to handle such. I hate the sound of V8s. At least when the only mod is exhaust. Just a nasty sound. Now with headwork and a turbo, Im sure it would sound a lot better. What does it matter that you have 400hp out of a fairly stock engine? I mean, for the price of the engine, you could mod what you have pretty nicely. And 400 hp from an american V8 is a lot less than 400 hp from a japanese I4. There are more issues than power. Its not bias, its looking at more than numbers. If you are stuck on numbers, you may be in the wrong motorsport.

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    • #17
      im happy with my power band and spinning my wankel to 8grand vs having low to mid torque and redlining at 5 or 6.

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      • #18
        I say u drop in a AGT-1500

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        • #19
          I don't like the sound of American V8's myself but the LS1 is ok to me. I wasn't talking about putting a stock LS1 in an FD anyway, I was talking about something modded.

          The thing about American V8's is their tourqe is either greater than or equal to their horsepower. Tourqes what gets you there, something small displacement motors have trouble making. Saying that 400hp from imports is more would be incorrect. If you had an FD with a 400hp 13B and one with a 400bp LS1, the LS1 powered FD would beat the 13B car mod for mod and retain full 50/50 weight distribution and handling..

          I'm not looking for exact numbers. Having a car that would be good on the highway, drifting, road racing, autoX, the streets, gymkhana, drag racing and get 27 mpg on top of that would be stellar. I would say there would be more issues with the 13B, bad tank of gas. Boom! Bad tune... Boom! Knock once and Osama bin Laden himself will pay your 13B a visit.. Boom! Now don't get me mixed up here I'm a staunch Japanese car enthusiast but lets be real. 13B's are delicate motors that demand alot of attention and money.

          For drift, I think an LS1 swap in a Seven would make for some interesting manuevres and long smoking slides with crazy opp. lock.. The power and tourqe would be there to just throttle around an entire track in full oversteer. What drifter wouldn't contemplate such a swap?

          Btw, the LS1 is not a "Big Block", just a small aluminum V8.

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          • #20
            For drift, I think an LS1 swap in a Seven would make for some interesting manuevres and long smoking slides with crazy opp. lock.. The power and tourqe would be there to just throttle around an entire track in full oversteer. What drifter wouldn't contemplate such a swap?
            Yes, but that isnt a drift.. thats just a large donut aka the American Uber L337 JDM dorifto

            As i said before get an AGT-1500

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            • #21
              I'm not talking down 13Bs their awesome motors. Was just stating the possibility. If I were to get an RX-7 I WOULD build up the 13B before I considered a swap. Even though I know the motors can be volitile I still love the vibe of having a rotory under the hood. Plus the sound of those things is so good.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by MrodDrft
                Yes, but that isnt a drift.. thats just a large donut aka the American Uber L337 JDM dorifto

                As i said before get an AGT-1500
                Why wouldn't you consider drifting an entire track a drift?

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                • #23
                  Man id love that in my Rx7, i could power slide all day with 1500 hp

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                  • #24
                    O yea, heres the donor vehicle..

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                    • #25
                      I have to disagree with the sound of a V8 being the end all be all. I have 3 inch exhaust with a resonator on my FD and it sounds like a tornado when it let's loose. I run open stock bov's and if you half throttle it it sounds just like a tornado. They are soo loud it attract's attn anywhere. BUT with that being said, I would swap my 13b out for an LS1 any day of the week. Why? Let's examine the reasons.

                      1. Reliability. Face facts, the 13B in the FD is about to MOST unreliable engine next to a Top Fuel dragster motor. They pop more seals than a potthead going for a job interview. I am on my third engine and need a fourth. I can still drive mine but he engine needs to be changed.

                      2. Price. Yea the swap right out of the box from HSC is 7199.00 or something close to that and you provide the LS1. But you can do that swap with hand tools on your garage in a weekend if you buy their kit. Granted we are not all Super techs but a couple people can do it with decent ease. Also once you do the swap, those engines are WAY more bulletproof than a 13B.

                      3. More power and less weight. You lose 40 lbs when the swap is done. That's lighter than the already superlight car you had already.

                      4. POWER! Read HSC's website, they report to make 350 Hp. I make 380 at the crank, that's roughly 340 at the wheels. I run 12.3 to 12.5's at about 114 to 116 mph. That guy run's 11.s!
                      That's torque.

                      5. Parts. In the long run you are goping to spend WAY less to do that swap than to make the 13B superfast. I don't know about any of you but here in my neck of the woods, FD part's ain't cheap at all. While Chevy part's are. You can build a wicked LS1 for under 6 grand. Alot less if you know people. Your street port Rotary through Pettit is about 3200 bucks. Then you get to look at the turbos (probably thrashed if over 30k on them unless they are upgrades with the re-inforced flange) then wiring harness (same as above except no upgrade there) and a multitude of sensors, switches and thingamajigs that get heat damaged. Add all that to the booktime of 18.5 hours to R/R that engine and you are up to about 6 grand there.

                      Also think about this. 13BRW's usually last about 30-50k on a good day. Yes you can make them last longer. My first 93 had 146k on the original eng, turbos and wiring harness but it was automatic and was driven by Granny Sue. But you can take at least 15k off that if you make that thing 400RWHP. Reason being, you are going ot beat on it. Add to the fact that you will be Drifting it and the mileage goes down. So you put all this money into the engine and then blow it. Get ready to add ALL that price back in AGAIN to replace the engine AGAIN. Now you see what I see.

                      It just makes sense.


                      Also this is for an FD as that is the car that I own.

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                      • #26
                        geez i know someone interested in taking that FD off your hands

                        why dont you let him know what kinda deal you're interested in? he's been giving it heavy consideration over the last week or so

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                        • #27
                          The reason i started this post is b/c i've never seen this done in a drift FD.

                          the HSC shop car was a burned out and paint less when they started now they have the badest stock lookin fd. if you think about it that would be an anything killer if u got sombody at a stop light. they would have no chance

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                          • #28
                            Nightracer
                            The thing about American V8's is their tourqe is either greater than or equal to their horsepower. Tourqes what gets you there, something small displacement motors have trouble making. Saying that 400hp from imports is more would be incorrect. If you had an FD with a 400hp 13B and one with a 400bp LS1, the LS1 powered FD would beat the 13B car mod for mod and retain full 50/50 weight distribution and handling..
                            ...how the f u c k does it retain the same handling and weight distribution? By swapping in an ls1 the engine would be placed over the front wheels. The reason the car handles the way it does, is because its running an 80inch motor placed far back, close to the firewall and low, distributing weight more in the middle almost giving the car mid engine characteristics. F U C K your ls1, ive put down corvettes many times thats in an fc on track. Why spend that much for that bullsht. This is what you expect from people with no rotary experience, just theories.

                            F u c k this *Censored**Censored**Censored**Censored*, ima buy an iroc and put a 3rotor in it, so all you muscle motherf u c kers will shut the sh1t up.

                            Ghostofduluth
                            5. Parts. In the long run you are goping to spend WAY less to do that swap than to make the 13B superfast. I don't know about any of you but here in my neck of the woods, FD part's ain't cheap at all. While Chevy part's are. You can build a wicked LS1 for under 6 grand. Alot less if you know people. Your street port Rotary through Pettit is about 3200 bucks. Then you get to look at the turbos (probably thrashed if over 30k on them unless they are upgrades with the re-inforced flange) then wiring harness (same as above except no upgrade there) and a multitude of sensors, switches and thingamajigs that get heat damaged. Add all that to the booktime of 18.5 hours to R/R that engine and you are up to about 6 grand there.
                            You can build a wicked *Censored**Censored**Censored* brew for under 6 grand, you build the motor yourself....You dont buy used, turbos. Buy a larger turbo...Street port? F u c k that, porting costs you time not money...if you do it yourself...and halfbridge that sht. Wiring harness? Buy a haltech....f u c k stock wiring harness. It only costs more if your talking about throwing a brew in an fc, and F that, put an re in an fc.

                            Also think about this. 13BRW's usually last about 30-50k on a good day. Yes you can make them last longer. My first 93 had 146k on the original eng, turbos and wiring harness but it was automatic and was driven by Granny Sue. But you can take at least 15k off that if you make that thing 400RWHP. Reason being, you are going ot beat on it. Add to the fact that you will be Drifting it and the mileage goes down. So you put all this money into the engine and then blow it. Get ready to add ALL that price back in AGAIN to replace the engine AGAIN. Now you see what I see.
                            13brews last from 30k to 50k if your a d u m b a s s. If your first rx had 146, which is almost tripple the maximum of 50k that you stated, then how the hell did you come up with that 30-50k theory? 400hp in an fd is easily obtainable, treat your motor right, and it will treat you the same. Mileage goes down when you drive it aswell...Replace it? Put an re in it..

                            I wouldnt expect all this from a rotary owner, unless your an idiot.

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                            • #29
                              Flamers. All of you. Please dont fight, you both have personal opinions on which engine is better. I think the stock motor is probably what is best for the car. Stop taking everything so personally.

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                              • #30
                                yea i need to stop flaming. I just hate everyones theories so much.

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