My fc3s!! Yippy!

[240silvia]

well iono guys, i guess i hope for the best...thanks for the opinions even though thats not what i asked for

[JunpoweR]

Reliability all depends on how you drive the car..Keep the revs under 4500 rpm 80% of the time it will last well over 150k miles.I have owned a older 1985 GSL-SE that ran over 220k miles plus before i sold it on the original motor.those years had lower compression 13b with heavy rotors and 3mm seals stock.But yes it's a gamble and having a nice stock one will give you the longest life.

[240silvia]

does anyone here get deals on parts? I need:

Racing Beat Race Clutch Disc - 6 Puck Disk 1983-92 Non-turbo
Part Number: 12526

Racing Beat Race Pressure Plate 1984-92 RX-7 (6-Port) (Non-Turbo)
Part Number: 12621

Mazdatrix Short Shifter 1984-88 Non-turbo
Part Number: 752-0126A

Mazdatrix Rear Toe Eliminator Bushing 1987-92
Part Number: 14050 (pair)

[ToplessFC3Sman]

Ok, to answer your questions, first, the car is stalling when u turn on the AC because your BAC valve (bypass air control) isnt functioning. This valve is what the ECU controls to attempt to maintain a steady idle when you turn on accessories, and is whats causing the idle stuttering problem as well as the stalling. For the short-shifter, miata short shifters are very cheap and work great with VERY minimal modification, there are descriptions on nopistons.com and rx7club.com. If you are going to be in there anyway, you may want to invest in the inner shifter boot (and upper and lower shifter bushings, if your shifter feels really sloppy and loose) those are typically worn out in a car this age, and arent too expensive.

As for the unreliability of the rotary engine, Ive had mine (88 N/A vert) and been using it for a daily driver since i got it, over 2 years ago. Its at 150 thou miles now and still going strong. You just need to understand the engine, how it works, what it likes and what it doesnt like. Yea, it requires more maintenance, and more awareness of it, but thats one of the great parts about owning one.

Not to mention looking at all the R&D time that piston engines have had in relation to the rotary engine.

[ShadowX]

^^^^ What he said about your car's problems.

Also, N/A Rotaries can last for well over 200k miles if taken care of properly. Turbo's rotaries are the one that can be a little more finicky. HAving said that, I drive the piss out of my FC, and it's still going strong. Keeping everything cool and the having a proper fuel A/R is the way to keep those going good.

Since you're new to rotaries, don't forget, they burn oil. They're designed to do it, there's oil injector that squirt oil directly on to the surface of the rotor, which of course, gets burned off in combustion. It's been said that around 70% of engine heat is managed by the oil system in a rotary. (Hence all the oil coolers.) Also, don't forget to rev that engine! Especially on an N/A, because of the additional port that only open at higer RPM. Because of the oil injection, there can be a lot of carbon build up in these ports, if you don't rev the engine, the ports never open, and large chunks of carbon will build up in these ports. Then one unfortunate day, the carbon will break off, causing damage to the rotor housing and seals. So, be sure to redline it about once a day if you drive it regularly.

[240silvia]

awesome! Thanks guys that was very informative!! Actually i got my idle under control thank god. It just took some new spark plugs and wires and a new cone filter and a lil seafoam was sent through it and now shes idlin at around 1000-1100. Im still waiting for my O2 sensor to come in and im still gonna have my TPS looked at in a few weeks. I also just ordered a few parts! Heres the list:
Racing Beat Race Clutch Disc - 6 Puck Disk 1983-92 Non-turbo
Part Number: 12526

Racing Beat Race Pressure Plate 1984-92 RX-7 (6-Port) (Non-Turbo)
Part Number: 12621

Mazdatrix Short Shifter 1984-88 Non-turbo
Part Number: 752-0126A

Mazdatrix Middle Boot Kit 1986-92
Part Number: 64-490B-FB01

Mazdatrix Rear Toe Eliminator Bushing 1987-92
Part Number: 14050 (pair)

I Cant wait to get em in! Today its engine bay scrubbin day...ehh not too fun but its something that must get done

[ShadowX]

Just a heads up, those rear bushings are going to be a huge PITA to do if you don't have a press. Just a question, were you planning to drift it?

[240silvia]

well my parts have come in and im ready to install! I also have $450 and im hoping i can get TII calipers all around and some struts and springs. Then i'll be good for a while tell i get my next bit of money in august

[silver_beast]

hey guys, one question for yall! My FC idles at 600 rpm and can become a lil bouncy. Also when i turn the AC on it turns the car off. Any ideas? Im kinda new to the rotory world so keep it simple for me If the idle adjustment is the screw on the intake manifold that didnt help any Thanks

WWW.RX7CLUB.COM

[JunpoweR]

Yes

Go to the rx-7 forums and search for it!!

[240silvia]

It's been fixed for a while, thanks guys!

[theflatlander]

well my parts have come in and im ready to install! I also have $450 and im hoping i can get TII calipers all around and some struts and springs. Then i'll be good for a while tell i get my next bit of money in august

Why? you have the same brakes as the TII already.

[240silvia]

cuz i want rebuilt ones. I wonder if gxl brakes are more than TII brakes if i go to advanced auto and buy reman. ones

[JunpoweR]

The turbo II and GXL calipers are exactly the same.No diffrence at all..

I know at kragens you can core your old ones and get new rebuilt ones for about 35 each and 75 for FD calipers..
I always get them from Kragen every other time i change my brakes.
(about every 20k miles i get rebuilt ones cause there soo cheap..

I even took in first gen calipers and exchanged them for my rebuilt FC calipers for a total of about 75 bux for both with core exchange..