Thanks for the input about my coolant problem Alex. I dont think that is the problem tho, but it did get me thinking about whats going on. Remembering back to when the problems first started. Everytime something happened it was while I was powerbraking or doing small donuts. I know that when doing donuts their is not much air flow going threw the radiator. So that leads me to beleave maby its tome for a radiator upgrade or an electric fan of some sort. If its not to much trouble whats your take on the above info. My bad if my questions are getting repetitive. Out of all the Drivers in the 2004 D1 Feb. Event you were the only american Driver I didnt see or get an autograph from. Were you their?
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I'm looking for a set of RUCA's (S13) and saw Battle Versions (also being a little cheaper than some of the rest). Knowing that thats your company, what can you tell me about them, like a comparison, durability, warranty (if any), etc. I do realize that its your company and your gonna go just short of saying there better than gold but honesty helps a sale... Thanks
Also, S14 RUCA's fit an S13 no problem or anything right? Just clearing that up.Last edited by Pacman; 10-27-2005, 09:14 PM.
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Kelten,
Its hard to add torque down low on the 4ag. My feeling on it is to leave the motor stock and just do bolt ons like you already have. Once you start trying to build the motor, say with cams or high compresion, you start getting into tuning issues. So its cheeper to just replace the motor with a 20v or a 4agze to get more power.
hillkill,
I want to try it too at dday!
onesik86,
Take a look at your clutch fan. Make sure that thing is still good. Maybe that is what is causeing the vibration if its worn out.
My original one wore out and I took it apart to see if i could make it stronger. The inside uses some kinda grease, but there was nothing that i used that would make the fan blow more air when it got hot. So what I did was clean it out and filled it with sillicon gasket sealer.
Since the peice is sealed, the sealer never fully hardens but its way stiffer then the original grease in it.
Pacman
Also, S14 RUCA's fit an S13 no problem or anything right? Just clearing that up.
I can say that my parts are the best but every company will tell you that. What makes my parts better are the componets I use, such as the 3 peice teflon injected rod end, the fine pitch thread for better adjustments, the 120 wall DOM steel tubing.
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Hell yeah you can try it. But if you break, you help fix. Too bad the last DDay is filled. Unless you know some strings. I hope I can make it to the Just drift event. I'm gonna make some Spam Musubi, to help with the long *Censored**Censored**Censored* drive. Maybe see you out there.
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Originally posted by AlexPfeifferPacman
Most brands have a different ruca for the s13 and s14 and they wont interchange. The battle version sets however are designed to fit both the s13 and s14. They also fir R32, 300zx, q45 and some other chassis.
I can say that my parts are the best but every company will tell you that. What makes my parts better are the componets I use, such as the 3 peice teflon injected rod end, the fine pitch thread for better adjustments, the 120 wall DOM steel tubing.Last edited by Pacman; 10-28-2005, 10:51 PM.
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Pacman,
I'm sorry my friend but who ever told you that is wrong. If you look at any high tolerance bolt, they are always fine thread pitch. Like your head bolts, engine componets, suspension bolts, almost every bolt on your car is fine thread pitch. Coarse thread bolts are usually have a lower grade rating.
Then you have companies that use rod ends with a coarse thread pitch. Reason why is they are cheeper, so they make more profit margin by using those componets. Battle Version however uses higher quality rod ends and machines the parts accordingly. I will only make parts that I know will work and work right.
How they hold up?
There are more cars running battle version suspension arms then any other company in formula D, from
Ernie
casper
hubert
dai
kaaz
calvin
jr
autolink
taka
hiro
rsr
enjuku
motorsports dynamic
andy
mckinney motorsports
jspec
benson
ross
and many many more.
You will not be disapointed in buying battle version. For the money, you are getting the highest quality parts.
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Didn't realize that so many people were using your parts. From the looks of it, the price is lower than other companies. I'm pretty sold on these then. They seem high quality and will fix the rear camber. Thanks for the feedback, arrpreciate it. Anyone thinking a GB?Last edited by Pacman; 10-29-2005, 07:38 PM.
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Originally posted by PacmanDidn't realize that so many people were using your parts. From the looks of it, the price is lower than other companies. I'm pretty sold on these then. They seem high quality and will fix the rear camber. Thanks for the feedback, arrpreciate it. Anyone thinking a GB?
cheapskate
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Originally posted by Slapshotnerdyou already mentioned that they're priced lower than other companies, and you want a larger discount!?!
cheapskate
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Originally posted by PacmanWow. High school student that makes $8/hr and has to pay taxes and Union dues. Also having a girlfriend and a passion for cars all costs money. Cheapstake? No. Far from it. Broke. Sorta.
theres your problem, your work union, and have a gf. stop working union, spend a little more on her, tell her you need some battleversion stuff.
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Originally posted by hatebbobbarkertheres your problem, your work union, and have a gf. stop working union, spend a little more on her, tell her you need some battleversion stuff.
To keep it tech:
Are rear toe-link bars necessary? I heard that you can adjust rear toe with the factory rods to 0, just the camber will be messed bad (hence the RUCA's).
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Originally posted by PacmanIts a grocery store so I have to be union. Not working there will cause my pay to go down, and I don't really wanna work at In-N-Out to make the same pay. I'll have a tuition to pay since I'm starting UTI in July. FUN!!!
To keep it tech:
Are rear toe-link bars necessary? I heard that you can adjust rear toe with the factory rods to 0, just the camber will be messed bad (hence the RUCA's).
In-and-out starts at $9 and hour I think
I have battle version rods and plan on having Alex do my alignment and corner balance since I have new tie rods and toe/traction rods going in soon so I have complete trust in him as well as many many other people. You cant get the rear toe perfect if you run the camber back out to spec thats why you need toe rods. If you are on a budget though I ran mine with no toe rods with very minimal excessive tire wear if that makes sense.
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Originally posted by brainfoodIn-and-out starts at $9 and hour I think
How close can you get the toe to normal spec with factory? What about the front, any arms up there I should look for? Alex, got something I should know about which arms are more important than others?
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hey alex, thanks for the 5 links for my corolla i just anodized/painted them myself now i have a rare set of purple battle version links hopefully will install sometime this week.
btw, my magazine shoot is coming up soon, do you have any battle version stickers?
also will you be at the next dd?
thanksLast edited by daytona350z; 11-06-2005, 02:48 PM.
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