MA70 weight issue....

[Chas]

Just keep the 7m. IT can make more hen enough power. We could get you a 1j if you really want it. You can get the 7m to put out over 300 with under 1000 of basic boltons.

[driftmunky]

Hey Chas, you know that I am TYMunkey on AOL right? jsut checking cuz we already talked baout what you jsut said and i wasnt sure if you knew it was me, or were you just posting that for anyone else that might be browsing this topic?

[Chas]

Yes i know. Just answering the question for eveyone else.

[emission]

You know what suck's about manual tyranny's on the 7m's?

Fact they are only good for 350-400 rwhp at most.
As long as you keep it between those range's your cool.
I keep my tyranny in shape by changing the fluids every 3 months. Oil coolers help out a lot.

But I end up pulling it out every year anyways. I have a spare tyranny, it's ready to pop in when ever I feel the tyranny is about to go. I save some money by doing my own repairs. 800 bucks at most for a rebuild. 200 bucks for a repair kit you can save 600 bucks.

The lowest weight I have ever seen on a MKIII was 2820. Any lower and you'll be cutting away at the shell.

My lsd hasn't been changed for 5yrs. That's how long I had my supra, not counting the previous owners. I recommend the fluid is changed every 35,000 miles.

I run a lot of synthetics nothing beats it. Currently I'm experimenting on a new fluid and so far it doesn't burn or wear down my lsd after 12,000 miles the fluid is still clean and the lsd is more responsive.


The weakest links in the 7m is tyranny, Axel, and engine. Not an idea drift car for an owner on a budget.

But don't let all that scare you. The MA70's are great cars. Good luck. I love to see all MA70 drifters succeed as I have in learning how to drift these awesome cars.

[trainwreck]

here ya go, ive got a farily light mk3 for you guys to check out

car is an 87 hardtop, 5 sp, non powerseats, no leather, non abs

no sound deading tar
no rear int.
no rear seats
corbeua forza seats
no rear tire
no tow hooks
no emissions
no stereo
no charcol canister
no AC
no braces on manifolds
half front bumper support is gone
a ton of other small *Censored**Censored**Censored**Censored* missing
no crusie control
i think i added up all the weight, and it was about 350 to 375 lbs on a scale

[ma71supraturbo]

I've never heard about manual trannies being weak at 350rwhp. There are guys breaking them over 500hp, but those are only powershifting drag guys.


As for the A70 chassis -- I would make sure you get a hardtop. IMHO there is no sense in trying to build a car with a wet noddle chassis.


Weight reduction. You can get the car to 3100lbs for free -- just by taking stuff out. I'm at 3050lbs with a racing seat and fiberglass hood. But I still have ABS, powersteering, all glass windows, and (for the time being) a goddamn automatic.

Stock hood weighs 45lbs. Most fiberglass weigh 15, most CF weigh ~12. As for the other comments -- I think a properly built 7m-gte is fine -- just make sure you keep an eye on the oil level. Frequently guys do not expect it to burn as much oil as their car does, and they end up starving it and getting a rod knock. The head gasket is the other issue. A stock headgasket torqued to 75 ft-lbs will hold 350rwhp. If you want to go higher, I'd put in a MHG.


Driveshaft -- I would replace it with a lightweight 1-peice. I wouldn't consider it to be a "weak" link, but by now most of the car's carrier bearings are shot at the two-peices joint. The cost of the repair is almost as much as the lightweight shaft.


LSD -- Its OK when new, but if yours needs to be overhauled, you might as well spring for a better one. Same with 99% of the OEM lsd's from other cars...

Axles -- never heard of anyone breaking them, although I wouldn't be surprised if it was someone high-power using drag slicks.

Tranny -- shift fork, but only if you're a complete numbnut when you shift




I am surprised no one mentioned brakes. They border on sucking on a stock car. Mine aren't horrible at 3050lbs, but I'd still point to them as a major weak point.

Suspension -- stock and most spring/shock combos are way to tame IMHO. Coilovers are the only way to go. I'm on HKS's, but they are a bit soft. Judging by numbers, the order of best to worst coilovers is:

Cusco Zero2, Tein RA, JIC flt-A2, Cusco Zero1 (non adjustable shocks tho), then the HKS hipermax II, and then Cusco Comp-S (also not adjustable damper)

I have compiled as much info as I can find on A70 coilovers -- you can see it here: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...hreadid=155131

Front strut tower bar needs to tie to the firewall to do any good. Only one company makes it (CP racing) I think -- you can get it on www.suprasport.com. Sway bars -- I'm working on the info for my FAQ, but ST's are the least expensive and the same size at most of the more expensive. Rear sway bar is adjustable. Whiteline, Cusco, TRD and Tanabe also make them (or made them in the past)

[emission]

That's alot of great info, we need guys like ma71supraturbo i need pay supraforums a vist once and a while miss those guys.

[driftxtreem]

I think HPI also has lexan back glass for it Ill check with them and see if its available and at what price. That back and side glass weighs a ton to.

[emission]

Originally posted by driftxtreem
I think HPI also has lexan back glass for it Ill check with them and see if its available and at what price. That back and side glass weighs a ton to.

And that damn hatch with the worn shock that knocks me in the head every morning.

[ma71supraturbo]

Thanks, I've updated that thread with info on A70 sway bars.

[J-BloodAE86]

Originally posted by Chas
Just keep the 7m. IT can make more hen enough power. We could get you a 1j if you really want it. You can get the 7m to put out over 300 with under 1000 of basic boltons.

what bolt ons?

[Chas]

Boost controller, Downpipe, catback, intake.

[mranlet]

Several supplementary points of fat-trimming:

-There are a lot of manufacturers that will make lexan windows for you. Replacing that heavy hatch and side windows would save you a whole lot of weight. If all else fails, pop out the stock windows (save the rubber surrounds) and cut your own out from Home Depot's lexan sheets - don't use that acrylic stuff though, it tends to sag when it gets warm.
-The hood is simple enough that with very rudamentary molding skills, you could make your own fiberglass (or even carbon fiber) hood with extra-thin material. Old school hot rodders would often build a frame out of pencil wire and stretch a black canvas tarp over it and then give it a thin coat of 50/50 elmer's glue and water, making it waterproof and stiff.
-Eliminating the remote hatch release and replacing the stock hood release with aluminum hood pins will save a few pounds.
-Remove the plastic inner-fender splashguards and put on a thin coating of truck bed liner (to prevent rusting).
-Tear out the headliner, sun visors (use sunglasses if you live in a bright area), glove box, any interior panels (a CF/fiberglass dash can be made easily).
-For better safety, chassis stiffness, and weight savings you could bolt in an aluminum tube just behind the front seats at shoulder heght and attach racing harnesses to it and scrap the stock seatbelt systems.
-Aftermarket lighweight adjustable shocks are better than stock ones on so many levels (no pun intended)
-The lightest wheels possible will make braking and suspension systems operate much more efficiently, since mass versus angular momentum is an exponantial relationship. If you can get a wheel that saves 10 lbs over your stock one, x4 is 40 lbs plus the additional conservation of energy while the car is in motion, which aren't as easy to calculate.

If you're planning a drift only project, you can also ditch the turn signals, front and rear bumper supports, catalytic converter, door locks, window cranks and tracks.

From here it's a matter of whether you are willing to fabricate and substitute a utliltarian tubular frame for unit-body elements which tend to use way more material than needed.

-MR

[driftmunky]

Well, i haveno molding skills at all seeing as im barely in high school, but i do plan to learn, of course if oyu could PM me or e-mail (my addy should be in my profile) me or something letting me know how hard it would be to make a hood that would be nice (especially if i could do it for other people also to make some extra $$)

And do oyu have a pic of the "tubing to attach a racing harness" mod? i think i know hwat your saying but im not too sure....

Also, how much do the stock wheels weigh, if you know? cuz theres a few types of wheels im lookin at that are mostly around 15 lbs or so, and some as low as 11 lbs.....

[driftmunky]

And Trainwreck, what rims are those? Front and Rear? They look nice (both of them) and do you know their weight?