MA70 weight issue....

[ACDSupra7]

RE:

Refer to attachment -_^

[trainwreck]

the wheels in the rear are reganmaster evo 17X9 with a +18 offset, thats why they kinda fill the fenders, and the front are konig traffik, 17X7, im hoping to be able to cram the reganmasters in the front as well once i get the JIC control arms on the car, so i can run neg camber enough to tuck them inside the fenders. we will see as for tires, right now i run falken Azenis in the front 225 45 17 on the 17x7 rims, and my street rear tires are 245 45 17 falken azenis too. on the courses, i run any garbage i can pick up used for a few bucks on stock steelies generally 215 or 225 width.


i conservatively added up all the weight i took out of the car the other day, and i totalted up about 360 lbs of *Censored**Censored**Censored**Censored*, and the car was an 87 hard top, 5sp, non abs to begin with, so im hoping to be somewhere between 31 and 3200 lbs with a light load of fuel, and the roll bar, sway bars, strut bars, ect.

[driftmunky]

Am i the onyl person who ses nothing when you open the wieght index file?

[emission]

Originally posted by driftmunky
Am i the onyl person who ses nothing when you open the wieght index file?

yup same here blank document ACD fix it.

[supra_stephe]

.

Originally posted by J-BloodAE86
how much hp can the 7mgte put out? and where can i find 1j for sale?

well i know some one (the car is at www.speed-sorce.net) that is rocking over 400whp and has the dyno's to prove it, his *Censored**Censored**Censored**Censored* is extream, also hes got the dash and the two sparco's, you can get over 300hp out of a 7mge but you'll whant to use a turbo block and really good internals, just go for the turbo but maybe swap it so you insurence thinks your running an n/a. however for drifting and highways the auto is not the worts option, and now there is a triptronic shifting set up advalibole but i don't know about that. i love mine (supra) and if your ever in central MI or IL in the summer i'll be more then happy to give you a ride.

[driftmunky]

goto 7Mpower.com , some guys there are pushin around 700RWHP from 7M's.....

[J-BloodAE86]

Re: .

Originally posted by supra_stephe
well i know some one (the car is at www.speed-sorce.net) that is rocking over 400whp and has the dyno's to prove it, his *Censored**Censored**Censored**Censored* is extream, also hes got the dash and the two sparco's, you can get over 300hp out of a 7mge but you'll whant to use a turbo block and really good internals, just go for the turbo but maybe swap it so you insurence thinks your running an n/a. however for drifting and highways the auto is not the worts option, and now there is a triptronic shifting set up advalibole but i don't know about that. i love mine (supra) and if your ever in central MI or IL in the summer i'll be more then happy to give you a ride.

thanks dude, i live in so cali so its a trip, but you never know, thanks. and when you say good internals do you mean just the stock internals that are in good condition or good aftermarket internals?

[supra_stephe]

i mean aftermarket. you can hold off on the forged aluminum crank, but a good metal head gasket, good rings, etc. would be an invest ment in the long run, also (like what i'm doing (i have basicly a whole turbo motor sitting dissasimboled in my basement waiting to go in, its easy to just buy parts and stick them on whenever but save money and buy parts then do things logically and in one big step, or severaly large steps). also the speed-source web sight link does not work for me so just go seach on google for it , it would be the one about import tunning like the 5th one down when i did it. Carl crawford is like a toyota god, they guy will do/can do whatever you whant him to do. and look for supras on ebay they sell for cheap there.

[trainwreck]

if you seriously want to build a nasty *Censored**Censored**Censored* 7m, talk to me, as mine is fully built, with major head work, shoucl put down in excess of 600 to the wheels with out juice when its all tuned, as of rignt now, im only running 18 psi, and its untuned, but its still fast as fucX

[driftmunky]

Originally posted by trainwreck
if you seriously want to build a nasty *Censored**Censored**Censored* 7m, talk to me, as mine is fully built, with major head work, shoucl put down in excess of 600 to the wheels with out juice when its all tuned, as of rignt now, im only running 18 psi, and its untuned, but its still fast as fucX

Got any pics / times?

[Chas]

pics? dyno sheets?

[supra_stephe]

who did your head work? I like Rick Kemp (the guy who designed most of the toyota heads and a bunch of other crap.) or of corse Carl Crawford. both can rub my head when ever they want. ( did that sound bad?)

[ma71supraturbo]

Power mods

Power Modification Order, MK3 Supra Turbo

There are many possible modification orders, but this staged list is the system I recommend for increasing your 7m-gte's power while maintaining good reliability (read: this is a conservative order of modification). Please do not begin modifying unless your car is well maintained and running with no problems (i.e. proper head gasket, no overheating issues, good vacuum, good oil pressure, no misses, etc). If your car has any issues, address them now. Additionally please continue to keep up on your car's maintainence. A vacume leak at the accoridan hose, for example, is not a particularly dangerous condition for a stock mk3. But if your car is tuned for optimum power, you have taken away the extra safety of the over-rich factory tune and you could end up doing severe damage by running lean.

The following horsepower figures are estimated at the crank (bhp) and are based on a perfectly running mk3. For reference, a stock MK3 makes 230bhp (232bhp 89+) @ 6.8psi. I chose to list crank HP estimates for a few reasons. Automatic and manual cars make the same power at the engine, but manuals put more of that power to the ground (12-15% M/T drivetrain loss verses ~18-20% A/T). Additionally, modifications like light-weight flywheels and driveshafts will increase the rear wheel horsepower without actually increasing the power at the crank. And finally, because manufacturers list crank horsepower figures so this allows more of a direct comparison with newer cars. That said, it is important to realize that your car may make more or less power depending on a number of factors, so please take these and all horsepower figures with a grain of salt.

And a quick disclaimer: I have linked pictures of example modifications from MVPmotorsports.com just to break the monotony of text. This does not mean that this modification list is in any way sanctioned or warranted by MVP. Additionally there are many related topics that are beyond the scope of this FAQ, so I encourage you to do as much research as possible.

Thanks,

Jeff Gore
87T


Stage 1:
Intake, 235bhp @ 7psi
The first thing to do in increasing any engine's performance is to make sure it can flow plenty of air. The simplest way to help an engine breathe better is by installing an aftermarket intake. There are many different brands out there, but Apexi performed the best in this test. For hints on installing a full intake kit, please see this tech tip. While you are at it, I also recommend the SOGI Cold-Air Intake.


Stage 2:
Cat-back, 250bhp @ ~8psi
Continuing with the theme of better breathing, the next step is to install a cat-back exhaust. There are even more brands and styles of exhausts than intakes, so take your time and find one which best fits your needs for flow, looks, and sound. If you live in an area where corrosion is a problem, you probably will not want to settle for anything less than a full stainless system.


Stage 3:
Downpipe/elbow/primary cat or test pipe, 280bhp @ ~9psi
If you still want more power, then its time to replace the restrictive stock downpipe, turbo elbow, and secondary catalytic converter. This picture shows one of the simpler downpipes, although there are some downpipes that integrate a turbo elbow and test pipe in one unit. For the environmentally concerned, Random Technologies makes a high-flow cat that will replace the secondary cat, but it obviously will not flow as well as a "test pipe." One word of caution -- downpipes are not legal in all states as they replace the primary catalytic converter.


Stage 3.5:
Gauges
While gauges do not increase power, it is important especially if you want to continue modifying. At this point, you're probably already boosting 9 psi, which exceeds the stock boost gauge. Installing a new one, along with an Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) gauge is also a good idea. An Air/Fuel ratio gauge is also good, but readings based on your factory O2 sensor are next to worthless so a wideband 02 sensor would be necessary. Other good gauges to consider are water temperature, oil pressure, and oil temperature. If you can afford it, look for gauges with a peak hold feature. These can be very helpful, as you cannot always pay close attention to your gauges when you are driving hard.


Stage 4:
Boost controller, 300bhp @ just under fuel cut
Now that your engine can breathe freely and you can monitor what it's doing, it is time to turn up the boost with a boost controller. There are inexpensive manual boost controllers out there, but I have found it to be a pain to get out and adjust them every time the weather changes. The solution is an electronic boost controller which can not only be adjusted from inside the car, but some can also learn to better control your wastegate allowing the turbo to spool much faster.


Stage 5:
Intercooler and hardpipes, 320bhp @ just under fuel cut
If you still want more power, you will need to replace your stock intercooler and the restrictive stock intercooler piping. Compressing air creates heat, which can lead to detonation. Since you want to turn up the boost even more, you'll need an intercooler that can not only flow better but also do a better job of keeping the air cool. It also is a good idea to replace your factory bypass valve to prevent compressor surge.


Stage 5.5
fuel pump
When you try to boost too high, your ECU will cut fuel momentarily to prevent engine damage. Now that you want to exceed that limit, it is time to upgrade your fuel system. While it is possible to boost a little over fuel cut on the stock fuel system, it is not recommended -- especially if you have your sights set significantly higher. The first step to upgrading your fuel system is to then replace the fuel pump with one that can move more fuel. Walbro and the stock MKIV tt pump are common choices.


Stage 6:
Lexus AFM/550 injectors, 340bhp @ 15psi
One of the most common ways around fuel cut is to use an Air Flow Meter off a Lexus V8. The basic gist is this air flow meter allows some unmetered air through tricking the stock ECU into thinking it is getting less air than it really is. Because the ECU thinks it is getting less air, the boost at which you hit fuel cut goes up. To offset this extra air, 550 injectors replace the stock 440 units. Details on this upgrade can be found here Recently, PHR has announced they will make a "map ecu" that will allow consumers to use a much less restrictive MAP sensor instead of an AFM. Details on this product can be found here.


Stage 7:
Fuel tuning device and dyno tuning, 375bhp @ 16psi
At this point, the car could benefit from some fine-tuning. Chances are you will be running rich, so an air/fuel controller can lean out the mixture and help further raise fuel cut. There are many options out there, so do a little research and decide on the best unit for your goals. If you must have the best, a standalone is the way to go but it is much more expensive, and is more difficult to tune (chances are you will have to have a professional tune it).



Stage 8:
Upgraded turbo
You have now reached the useable limits of the stock turbo. It is possible to further increase the boost, but the turbo will be blowing such hot air that you will experience diminishing returns. Which turbo you go with will depend entirely on how far you want to take your Supra. If 450bhp or less is ok you can go with an upgraded CT26. 550bhp or less and you can go with a bolt-on hybrid turbo. If that is not enough, then you will be looking at a bigger turbo that will probably involve some custom work. If you do have your sights set that high, you probably know what you’re doing or will be taking the car to a professional.





And as an aside -- There are people making lots of power with the 7m-gte. Will Neely is at 730rwhp on the stock computer (plus piggybacks). Some guy in Australia is at 714kw (not sure of the exact power conversion). HKS made over 800hp back in the day from a de-stroked 7m-gte in their drag car. And there are rumors of a guy pushing over 1000hp in a 7m-gte in a MK2 drag car (apparently he uses stock engines, but replaces them after every event)

[J-BloodAE86]

370 hp and stock turbo? with a 7m?? sounds good to me, does it really work?

[ma71supraturbo]

Originally posted by J-BloodAE86
370 hp and stock turbo? with a 7m?? sounds good to me, does it really work?

bhp so about 305 at the wheels. There are guys making 350rwhp on the stock turbo, but they are really pushing the limits of "safe". The good news is a $450 rebuild/upgraded stock turbo is good for 400-450rwhp at ~21psi.

The engine is strong except for the factory head bolt torque (~54ft-lbs). 350rwhp on a stock headgasket torqued to 75 ft-lbs is relatively safe as long as you don't detonate. Metal head gaskets can get expensive as the surface of the head and block have to be nearly perfect to get a good seal. This almost always means tearing down the block to have machined (in addition to the head), so most people save the MHG for when they do a full rebuild. The other "weak" point are the rod bearings. There are two common causes for rod knock -- the first is when you take your engine to a machine shop used to domestic engine tolerances. Make sure if you rebuild your engine to follow the specs Toyota gives in the TSRM (available online here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/ ) The second cause is when people run their engine low on oil.

Other than that, the 7m is a good engine. The stock and upgraded stock turbos spool pretty well and are capable of plenty of power for track/drifting use.