FC3S Drift

[Rotary Magic]

how can u make it more reliable? and how do u drive the rotary so u wont break it?

i have all the aftermarket parts for cooling but am still scared to try and drift the fc ....scared to blow it up

[Wayne]

how can u make it more reliable? and how do u drive the rotary so u wont break it?

i have all the aftermarket parts for cooling but am still scared to try and drift the fc ....scared to blow it up

than get another car honestly, im tired of people saying this.

[SidewaysGts]

^-- What the d00d above me said. Theres 2 real things that kill a rotary, heat and bad oil. If youve done all you can to deal with heat, nd you change ur oil religiously like youre testicles depending on it, every 2k miles, with mineral oil, then you should be fine.

Added; btw another thing rotary nuts are known to do is premix their fuel, i remember reading that full out racing rotaries uses somewhere like 100:1, but like 150-170:1 is acceptable for most people.

[Rotary Magic]

i premix , i change oil every 1k miles with 20w50 dino oil or sometimes 10w30 full synthetic...

and i premix 8 ounce per 10 galloon tank
=)

wayne: i would just like to get more advise and tips to drive a rotary so i wont blow it up not that im giving up on her. =)

cheers

[theflatlander]

just keep the maintanence up and if you have a turbo model don't get boost happy w/o fuel and tuning. That's about it.

[Boostedrex]

just keep the maintanence up and if you have a turbo model don't get boost happy w/o fuel and tuning. That's about it.

Flatlander nailed it!! Rotary engines get blown due to 2 things. Overheating and poor/lack of tuning. People think that they can do a full exhaust, new IC, and crank up the boost without worrying about the engine. You have to tune the engine and make sure you have enough fuel!! These engines have to run on the rich side to survive. I drift my FC and don't have any problems with the engine. Don't be scared of the rotary engine, it's a thing of beauty!!

Zach

[SeanFC3S]

Fc

my FC is working great, i can drift it pretty well now n have it under control, Ebrake is easy but i cant wait to get LSD n rear toe eliminators so i can clutch kick, brake drift, n shift lock better with less understeer, if ur ebrake doesnt work on ur FC u have to tighten it or fix it from the brake drum, it works pretty well for learning, i cant wait for turbo

[eyecandy]

how can u make it more reliable? and how do u drive the rotary so u wont break it?

i have all the aftermarket parts for cooling but am still scared to try and drift the fc ....scared to blow it up

Rotarys are very reliable provided you take care of the maintence, and like all other car be sure the AFRS are good, and you are not running to lean or rich.

I consider the FC a more intermediate-to-pro chassis, not to knock the S-chassis, but I have seen many people jump in an S-chassis and drift like they have been for years, then go back to there FC and look mediocore. The FCs love to grip and therefore are very stable and require more skill to break out, one fo the biggest down falls is the lack of steering angle, although this can be quickly taken care of with SuperNow!'s Superangle kit.

Here are some of my recomendations for setups and modifications to the chassis, but before you attempt the drift BESURE the engine is top notch and you can keep tabs on all the vitals (oil and coolant temps, oil pressure, boost, etc).

First off replace anything that is broken or worn out.

-Polyuerthane bushing kit
-Toe elminator bushings
-Rear adjustable camber link
-Super Angle Steering kit

-strut bars
-coilovers (preferably same spring rate f/r due to weight balance of the chassis)
-roll center blocks (front lower a-arms, s4s only)
-Sway bars

Thats pretty much the order I recommend them in. Strut bars (front) are in the middle of the list because of how it effects the FCs and causes them to understeer more (they could even come afer coilovers). Sway bars are at the bottom becasue they should be the last item to be installed and after your chassis is setup properly, sway bars tend to complement suspension setups and can hinder your ease of proper setup if they are already upgraded.

If the car has stock power, remove all the rear camber, as your power and expericene increases, increase the camber for stabilty reasons. If you would want to do a alignment setup this is what I recommend:

Front: 2-3 degrees camber; zero toe (add upto 1 degree with power)
Rear: zero camber (add camber with more power); zero toe

[GotNismo?]

Most agree the turbo models are easier to drift due to the better low end torque, and you can jsut get a little heavy on the throttle to use the boosti n power to break the tires free. NA takes a bit more balls because you need to be heavy on the gas and keep the rpms up.

lol true that, my fc is a gxl, and so far drifting wise.....its been a battle. Mine has 113,000 miles on it but the guy who had it before me just let it go to crap. so far EVERY time i go to get it sideways, something breaks. ive gone through a tranny, master and slave cylinder, clutch, tie rod ends, and vacuum leaks out the wazoo. but all in all as a grip car i think if done right it could be a monster, but as a drift car, these things are getting old and a dealership rebuild is floating in the 5 grand area. I think these have massive potential if you have the time and the budget to do it right. Overheating hasnt been an issue yet with mine (i live in new orleans where the heat stays around 90 and the humidity stays around a million). But all in all if your gonna do a rotary id say go with an fd just cuz these fc's are getting so hard to find in decent condition. thats my 2 cents, take it as you will.

[MrMaggot]

can you folks throw up some links for some of the more FC related things,

like the toe eliminator, super angle kit, and so on..

also how can you tell when your limited slip is about to go? and what is the best way to stop/replace/fix this problem. so that i can drift ofcourse...

im not scared of the rotary, im actually looking into buying one.

thaks for any help

[eyecandy]

can you folks throw up some links for some of the more FC related things,

like the toe eliminator, super angle kit, and so on..

also how can you tell when your limited slip is about to go? and what is the best way to stop/replace/fix this problem. so that i can drift ofcourse...

im not scared of the rotary, im actually looking into buying one.

thaks for any help

www.secretelement.com for DTSS bushings, camber link, super angle spacers (SuperNow! full kit is available) if you have any questions please feel free to email me at seeltuned@aol.com

As for the LSD, the best way to keep it in top shape is to be sure it has the proper fluid and is changed often. If the lsd is bad one of the wheels will spin faster then the other (not locking up), replacing them is not that hard just need to decide on if you want a 1, 1.5, or 2 way and what company.

[MrMaggot]

o one more thing..

what is the most stable way to premix

[SmogSUX]

I premix with my T2. I use 1 ounce per gallon, which ends up being about 128:1 which is considered ideal. I don't think the turbo models had that DTSS thing that made the rear wheels turn a little....
Oh and NEVERRRR I REPEAT NEVER!! go with the factory rebuild...finding a decent rotary mechanic around isn't too hard. My friend here in norcal reuilds rotarys and does a damn fine job of it. He charges like 1500 for a rebuild on an n/a..cheapest I have ever seen anywhere. I know when my engine goes I am going to pay him to do a 1/2 bridgeport and rebuild the engine because he does an awsome job and is the absolute cheapest guy anywhere. If anyone in Cali needs a cheap rotary mechanic just pm me and ill hook you up I've seen too many guys dump 5k and beyond into a factory rebuild to only end up with a crappy motor. (Or some mechanic didn't do the install all that well) Either way you end up with a messed up motor..

On my T2 I have:
urethane bushings, kyb agx struts, ebaich pro springs, front strut brace. I still want my rear strut brace and some racing beat sway bars to complete my setup. My car grips the road like no other (I also have 245 Toyo Ts-1 up front and 255 Firestone in back) came with the car, but It tends to grip really well and when I do get sideways....oh gosh..it gets REALLY sideways. Not exactly a begginers car >.> I haven't tried driftin in a long time since I've had turbo issues and just now got around to fixing it. Soon I'll be back in the game

[MrMaggot]

ya, im in virginia. in the hills. so i have no clue how to go about finding a person to rebuild the rotary. i was thinking or ordering one online. already built and ported, 3mm apex seals so on. and put it in myself that way i can take the other motor and attempt to rebuild it myslef. it would be a good educational thing i guess. the motors dont look all that hard to work on. and id love to know how to do it myself.
maybe from this place...
http://www.mazdarx7engines.com/13b_89_92t.html
unless you folks have any kind suggestions.


also i came across a guy that will sell me his convertable for like 1G. should i look into this.. or is a convertable a waste of my time..

it would make a good second car is what i was thinking..


o and on the premix. any solid brand suggestions. and should i do it outside the car or just add as i pump...?

[SmogSUX]

o and on the premix. any solid brand suggestions. and should i do it outside the car or just add as i pump...?

Walmart brand Yeah you pretty much add it then pump...that way it gets mixed in a bit better.