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I was wondering(I have a 1987 Mazda RX-7 GXL(N/A)what are all the uneeded vaccuum lines that i can remove/plug up???and i was wondering how much power can i get from a N/A motor from removing these vaccuum lines???
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Your best bet would be to go to an RX7 specific website for that info. Not sure about the FC but my FD was a nightmare to change all the vacuum lines on. I'm still pulling vacuum lines out of the rafters from where I threw them in a fit of unabashed rage. -
hahaha......oh ok a specific website? like what?
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Emissions equipment - what you can remove, and how to
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OK, here's a break down of the how's and why's of the emissions equipment on the car. The only part of the emissions system that really affects performance are the cats - everything else is just in the way, and removal helps with simplicity.
MAIN CAT/PRE-CAT - This is always the first step, as all the other components support these guys. Remove and replace with downpipe/presilencer/straight pipe/whatever.
SPLIT AIR PIPE - this is the air pipe that injects air into the cat. With the cat gone, you can remove this sucker. You don't have to cap up the hole if you remove the air pump - with the air pump gone, that hole is just dead space - it's not a vacuum leak or anything. But, capping it can lead to a cleaner look.
AIR CONTROL VALVE - this is on the lower intake manifold, and the air pump feeds air into it. The ACV controls where the air pump's air goes - into the main cat, into the exhaust manifold, or into the silencer that's under the passenger side headlight. The '89-91 NA's have their 6-ports and VDI actuated from air pump pressure, so the ACV is required unless you fab something up. To remove the ACV, pull it off, remove the studs, put in a fresh gasket and a block-off plate. Make sure to cap off the vacuum lines that went to the ACV as well, and secure the wires up that went to it.
AIR PUMP - if you can ditch the ACV, you can ditch the air pump. With the air pump gone, consider getting a dual-belt alternator pulley - with only one belt on the water pump, you can have slipping. A good Dayco belt can run the alternator with one belt and no slipping, but having 2 is good for redundancy. The air pump's only function is to create pressurized air for the cat and manifold for emissions reasons. Removing it frees up little, if any, horsepower - the pump doesn't put much load on the engine at all. But, it is big-time in the way and a royal pain to remove and replace.
EGR VALVE - this valve injects exhaust gasses into the combustion chamber under certain circumstances to lower combustion temperatures to prevent the formation of NOx, which is a greenhouse gas. The EGR valve doesn't really affect performance one way or the other, but a bad one can make for a lousy idle. To remove, install a block-off plate and cap the vacuum line.
AIR RELIEF SILENCER - this is a canister that's under the passenger side headlight. It's just an air muffler for the air pump. It's a bit of a pain to remove, and it's not really in the way, but you can take it out anyhow .
REMOVING THE SOLENOID RACK
This is the tricky part of the equation. It's not super hard, but it will require some creativity and understanding to do. Again, the only reason to do this is to clean up the engine bay and get something else that doesn't need to be there outta there.
On top of the engine is the metal vacuum spider - a maze of metal vacuum lines. The majority of these are emissions-related. You have to remove the upper intake manifold to have access. Mind, I'll try to note the differences, but there's quite a few differences from '86-88 and '89-91, as well as NA and Turbo.
Easiest way to describe this is what you'll need when it's all done.
FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR - this is on the end of the primary fuel rail. There is a nipple on the lower intake manifold pointing towards the firewall that is its vacuum source. When in doubt, check the vacuum diagram in the shop manual - stock, the source nipple connects to the vacuum spider, goes to the orange solenoid, then back to the FPR. The only thing the solenoid does is switch the FPR's vacuum reference from vacuum to atmospheric pressure. There is NO DIFFERENCE in driveability or starting with the solenoid not there.
OIL METERING INJECTORS - each of the 4 injectors has a vacuum line that connects to a round gang block, and from there it connects with a larger vacuum hose to the upper intake manifold.
PRIMARY INJECTOR BLEED SOCKET - there is a vacuum nipple in the middle of the bottom of the intake manfold, near where the primary injectors are. This vacuum hose goes to the upper intake manifold. This line actually pulls vacuum from *before* the throttle plates, and uses this differential pressure to help atomize fuel at certain conditions. This is a Good Thing. Just run the hose like stock, and make sure it goes to the same vacuum nipple on the upper intake manifold as stock.
SECONDARY INJECTOR BLEED SOCKET - this is only on the '89-91 cars. There is a vacuum line going between the two secondary injector's bleed sockets, and another one sticking out to the side of the #2 secondary injector. Leave that vacuum line, and hook the side nipple up to the upper intake manifold like stock. Again, this is to help with atomization.
PCV SYSTEM - now we're getting complicated . This is the Positive Crankcase Ventilation System, which is there because the oiling system generates pressure which needs to be bled off - it can't be a sealed system. Stock, the system is fed back into the intake, and some residual oil is pulled into the intake, dirtying intercoolers and throttle bodies . On the TurboII, the nipples to be concerned with are just below the oil fill cap, and where the oil fill neck meets the block. The NA's only have the one where the fill neck meets the block (I think). This HAS to be vented - if you cap it up, you will pressurize the crankcase, which can lead to smoking and all kinds of weird problems. Venting it to atmosphere is the easiest solution, but will over time make a mess, as excess oil comes out of the nipple. The right way is to use a catch can that has a filter on it to catch the excess blow-by. Jaz makes a tiny catchcan that works great - Jeg's carries it.
FUEL LINES - you will be running the fuel lines along a longer run. Run a line from the fuel filter to the primary fuel rail, and run a line from the secondary fuel rail to the metal nipple that heads back to the tank. Use ONLY fuel injection rated hose, 5/16" ID, and you need about 6 feet worth to do the job. Zip tie the hoses together and keep it tidy - you don't want them rubbing against things or the like.
SOLENOID PLUGS - when you remove all the solenoids, you will have a number of spare plugs. The ECU doesn't care at all - you won't get a code or anything. Just tuck them out of the way somewhere.
BOOST CONTROL SOLENOID - this is only on '89-91 Turbos. If you're at the point where you're removing the solenoid rack, your car is modified, and you need to ditch this anyhow - it will give you some serious overboosting problems. Remove it, and cap the hole on the turbo inlet duct and the nipple on the metal hard line that feeds the wastegate actuator.
That's all I have off the top of my head . If I think of other issues, I'll post - if you have any questions, I'll see if I can help.Comment
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hey, thanks man. Your like a rotary expert if thats off the top of your head. I'll try to do some of those thing like relocation of the gas lines and,probly try to remove at least most of the vaccuum lines. I was talking to someone that had the same car and motor as me and he had his motor (13B) down to 3 vaccuum lines. Is that even possible with the rotary?....thanks agian
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yup, i've got it down to that.Comment
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I've got my turbo II down to just 5, If you remove all the emmisions crap and convert to premix you can really get rid of alot of junk.Comment
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got a question about the catch can...do u go from the oil filler nipple to the can....from the can to the nipple thats below oil filler(which is on the block) with a vented can?Comment
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