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Widebody?Pros? Cons?

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  • #16
    Originally posted by s15driftking
    octagon, thank you for bringing up that excellent point!! good stuff!!!

    also, brainfood, good point as well, i guess that is true, ebcause its way easier to replace a 200 dollar set of overfenders than re-true a quarter panel
    heh I know all about that I backed into the wall at Long beach fd and am still trying to decide to put overfenders on or fix the quarter panel that is all buckled now.

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    • #17
      I started out with 50mm over fenders, but i tweeked them and trimed them to get them smaller. hold them down while you poprivet them on and you can make em as wide as you want really. And yeah i used em cuz my quarter panels were pretty well *Censored**Censored**Censored**Censored*ed anyway. Much cheaper and faster than real bodywork. Heres a few progress pics of mine.

      http://dailydrifter.com/FORUMS/showthread.php?t=117

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      • #18
        Helo OCTAGON great pic those were the GLORY DAYS so many memories.The good ol IMSA GTU-GTO and prototype battles. IMO that was the greatest era in motorsports(tears) . BRAINFOOD I got the same prob with my S13 damaged QTR but I think Im gonna fix the stock crap LMK whats up with your whip.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by UNITEDMASTER
          Helo OCTAGON great pic those were the GLORY DAYS so many memories.The good ol IMSA GTU-GTO and prototype battles. IMO that was the greatest era in motorsports(tears) . BRAINFOOD I got the same prob with my S13 damaged QTR but I think Im gonna fix the stock crap LMK whats up with your whip.
          Yeah mine isnt too bad and for a track car I can live with just pounding it out straight and leaving it so far to fix my chassis that at first I thought was totaled has been $20 for a chain luckily I had some friends help out with some parts for free but even if I paid for them it wouldnt have been more than a couple of hundred. Then probably $70-$100 for my exhaust then I will be back on the road.

          tirekillers: How much wider are your overfenders now? I would run them if I only had to run 25mm bolt ons to flush my wheels so if they were maybe 20mm wider that would be cool since I can run about a 5mm spacer now to flush them.

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          • #20
            I measured from the spring out on both sides while i was installing them. I got 13.5 inches to the overfender wich is about an inch wider than where the lip was. Now, my lip was pulled some before the overs so i dont really have a good baseline but that should give you atleast something to work with.

            A little more detail on my setup for reference. The rear wheels are 18x10 +24 with no spacers. Tire is a 235/40. The rear was aligned to -1.5 camber with the old wheels (17x7.5 +27 ) and has not been realigned yet.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by TIREKILLER
              I measured from the spring out on both sides while i was installing them. I got 13.5 inches to the overfender wich is about an inch wider than where the lip was. Now, my lip was pulled some before the overs so i dont really have a good baseline but that should give you atleast something to work with.

              A little more detail on my setup for reference. The rear wheels are 18x10 +24 with no spacers. Tire is a 235/40. The rear was aligned to -1.5 camber with the old wheels (17x7.5 +27 ) and has not been realigned yet.

              those are flush? I run 17x9 +20 or +15 and they are flush with 225's. So the 10's you are running should sit in about the same place. But I run those one stock fenders just the lip rolled. ahhh nevermind forgot your s13

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              • #22
                No, I wouldnt say they were flush with the overs, im gonna run a spacer once i switch up to a 255-265/35 tire. Without the overs these were slightly mexi-flush i prolly could have added some camber to fix it but i wouldnt have been able to go to a wider tire.

                And yeah im MOSTLY S13.

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                • #23
                  bodyworking metal sucks, body working fiberglass is torture. i work on classic vettes, i think i'm gonna stick with metal. plus plastic fender flares bring a classic jdm feel to early 90's cars IMHO

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                  • #24
                    im late, but a wide body that is wind tunnel tested will give you more downforce and allow for wider wheels and hiding more objects in the wider body(IE relocating oil coolers, radiators, etc.). For a street car its just for cool points, or hater points. For REAL race cars it is beneficial, for all these street cars, there is no point of wasting your time and money when it could be spent on better things (unless you are doing it to a show car).

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by s13/350z
                      there is no point of wasting your time and money when it could be spent on better things (unless you are doing it to a show car).
                      what if you've done everyhtign else?

                      i mean, my motor is in the "End all be all" stage and the suspension components i have chosen work exceptionally well.... so what else is their right? a bucket, a LSD, and baller wheels, i have all 3, so now, maybe widebody??? gotta fit those 18x13 works somehow

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                      • #26
                        I should have stated that also if your car is basically done you might as well if you want to haha.. I say do it if you have the money and everything else that you want is where you want it.. Its your car and I have no say in what you should do, but alot of dumb kids will slap on a wide body to a stock car just for some cool points... But you seem to be wayyy beyond that stage so go for it , then have fun driving it.

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                        • #27
                          i agree

                          i am at the end of the power breach, as well as driveline (clutch, 2way, etc), and suspension (coilovers, arms, bushings), im scheduled for my rollcage, i still must do a seat, and steering wheel, and hyd. e-brake. then i gotta slap on that Vertex ish and paint it (all i have to pay is product, no labor), and of course, baller wheels, hehe.

                          so i totally see what it is that your saying, your saying that too many kids want the look of a drift car and nut the functionality probably because they'll never drift/race it

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by s15driftking
                            i agree

                            i am at the end of the power breach, as well as driveline (clutch, 2way, etc), and suspension (coilovers, arms, bushings), im scheduled for my rollcage, i still must do a seat, and steering wheel, and hyd. e-brake. then i gotta slap on that Vertex ish and paint it (all i have to pay is product, no labor), and of course, baller wheels, hehe.

                            so i totally see what it is that your saying, your saying that too many kids want the look of a drift car and nut the functionality probably because they'll never drift/race it
                            exactly ...post some pics of ur car in the pics section and let us take a lookie if you want..Id love to see it.

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                            • #29
                              ill take pics when im fully finished!!

                              but i did make a build thread, its in..

                              http://www.drifting.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18632

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