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FC LS2 dogbox

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  • FC LS2 dogbox

    I'm just going to copy and paste from another forum to get things moving -then will give you fellas some updates as it comes along... sorry if there are messed up images and bad words...

    July 2008 I bought it 60,000 miles BONE stock:







    donor car:

    My soon to be LS2 for the swap

    1900 miles on the engine -owner is swapping in a LS3


    Last edited by Odobenus rosmar; 01-06-2010, 05:21 PM.

  • #2
    DIFF SAGA

    After doing some research and looking into many options I decided that I'm going to stay with the TII diff. I then started to research aftermarket LSD units and decided that OS Giken was the way to go, it is nearly double the price of a Kazz or Tomei unit -but the testimony from hardcore SCCA, BMW club racers, running the diff for 3 seasons without a rebuild made me pay more attention and do more research. Several race teams have disassembled the unit to inspect and repair only to simply reassemble it and put it back in. I asked the rep at OS for pricing on rebuild parts and he simply said that he has never sold any -However if you ask Tomei or Kazz they know the rebuild kit price right off the top of their heads, and suggest doing it every season... and from what I heard Tomei and Kazz are indeed the same unit

    Another couple factoids that impressed me is that the OS unit can simply be dropped in and go... it is machined with such precision that no "break in" is needed... however I will still change the fluid after my first event. Also came to find that Toyota is the parent company. The diff is also "tunable" meaning you can adjust the torque setting and timing for engagement.

    anyway here it is:


    OS Giken 1.5 way
    new seals, bearings, ect and proper stub shafts
    MMR Diff bushing






    Took it to my transmission guy:

    RX-Truck:




    The OS unit requires these stubbies:
    From OSGiken.net

    For Viscous LSD equipped vehicles, exchange with Genuine Mazda side flange pn: P019-27-270B x2 and snap ring pn: P016-27-421 x2. Open differential vehicles need no additional modification

    new vs. old

    The new ones, well they are used but new to me are in front with the VLSD stubs behind



    I was concerned about setting the backlash properly and did some investigation...

    I talked to a reputable local rotary shop (KDR Rotary in PA) and they told me to cut the FSM specs in half when setting it up. The first few they did to the lower end of the FSM specs and ended up with way too much backlash later down the road. He said after a short "break in" of a few 100 miles I'll be in perfect shape.

    Per S4 manual page 9-44
    Backlash is supposed to be between 0.09-0.11mm (0.0035-0.0043in)

    I had mine set to .0010 inch = 0.0254 millimeters which is a bit tight -but will work out perfect according to KDR, Mazdatrix and some board members.



    OK got everything back today... I'm going to clean it up a bit -but it came out nice... here it is:






    here is the MMR bushings:

    Comment


    • #3
      Going in tomorrow afternoon :naughty:


      I also installed some custom knuckles for more angle, dorifto! just need to build and install the tie rods.



      [img width=600 height=450]http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j148/74chevynova/Picture046-1.jpg[/img]

      [img width=600 height=450]http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j148/74chevynova/Picture044-1.jpg[/img]




      [img width=600 height=380]http://www.loosemoves.com/gallery/d/21838-1/_MG_6549.jpg[/img]

      broke *Censored**Censored**Censored**Censored*in seat:



      went 15x8 all around so I could actually keep the wheels spinning -NA rotary sucks:

      [img width=600 height=400]http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9d830b3127ccec703a412330600000040O00AYuWThk4cN2 IPbz4e/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/[/img]


      [img width=600 height=400]http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9d927b3127ccec7d91e5a3cf800000040O00AYuWThk4cN2 IPbz4e/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/[/img]



      I saw this:

      [img width=600 height=403]http://carview-img02.bmcdn.jp/carlife/images/usercar/395157/p1.jpg[/img]

      did this:



      S13 rod end and custom knuckles:



      LS6 intake manifold:

      Comment


      • #4
        [img width=600 height=398]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2657/3800301340_53b11fee63_o.jpg[/img]



        This is how she sat when I took her apart:

        [img width=600 height=450]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3430/3908912802_71aea3d5d0_b.jpg[/img]








        2009 was fun:

        [img width=600 height=403]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3508/3932893099_ffab5769b6_b.jpg[/img]

        [img width=600 height=403]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2667/3932897337_42244a8be6_b.jpg[/img]


        messy -but on the way there:

        [img width=600 height=450]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3464/4001360278_597427e909_b.jpg[/img]

        Got some RPF1 17" I'll powerdercoat them later:

        Comment


        • #5
          Ordered the dogbox:
          [img width=600 height=196]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2707/4052641743_02c6fb83b8_o.jpg[/img]



          cleaned it up:




          clean rear subframe -bushings and *Censored**Censored**Censored**Censored*:

          [img width=600 height=450]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2492/4163930979_282e115e1d_b.jpg[/img]


          Engine arrives:





          cleaning *Censored**Censored**Censored**Censored*:

          got some good work done today... I was working on the cage but ran outta gas for the welder. The blasting and painting continues! Like I said before -expect to see this color wherever I can use it.













          The arm is dry and the spindle is not:

          [img width=600 height=450]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2684/4238230022_f82b355f79_b.jpg[/img]

          Comment


          • #6
            Boredom and lack of funds has me cleaning all the time. Here is the knuckles ect back on the car -I'm going to tear it apart and do the front LCA as well -this looks too nice not too.

            I also did the camber mod on the coilovers -basically you slot the upper part where the bolt is so the bolt rests on the body of the shock -you get about 2.5* more neg camber doing this. I'm going to weld some washers on each side to prevent any movement.


            Fresh and clean!








            rad supprt gone



            I also tore into the wiring harness lastnight... after playing around a bit and reading my confidence is high and I think it just going to take a bit of time -but will come out nice.

            Comment


            • #7
              Nice build. Where did you get that Dog Box? Specs please. Is that a Jerhico?

              Comment

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