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FC3S/Rotary engines?

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  • #16
    from what i have read, many of u feel that the ka24de is not a weak motor. from what i have heard from many people owning a 240, they have said that the ka24de is very weak, and they have swapped in the sr20det motor, and say its one of the best!!, i am not to sure about a ka24deT because i have never met anyone who has turboed one of them.

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    • #17
      PRC- Yeah, the KA24 can be fast but if you look at any 240 in a magazine or in a real drift competion, they will have the SR20 swap simply because the SR20 has easily twice the power as the weak *Censored**Censored**Censored* KA24.

      BridgePorted- The compreesion in the N/A 13B is way greater than the turbo 13B so why turbo it when it already has more compression than the turbo engine? Sure it'll help but why not just start out with a Turbo II if your friends want to turbo an N/A engine? Maybe if you swaped a 3mm rotor and housing you could turbo it, but turboing a stock Turbo 13B is just easier than turboing an N/A engine and tuning it so it can take the compression. Yes, it is possible to turbo an N/A 13B if it is tuned right, but turboing a stock N/A without it being tuned, will most likely fail. So just keep the N/A's stock and the Turbo II's turboed (until they tuned enough to take the compression). And thanks for agreeing with the rest of the stuff.

      GRiDRaceTech- The only car that came with the KA24's are all of the 240SX's. The cars that didn't come with the KA24s are the later models of the 180SX which came with the SR20. ANY 240SX with the SR20 drop will tear anyone up with a KA24 240SX.

      dustydrifter4- FC's are very cheap, anywhere from $500 to $5000, it just depends on what model and how good of condition it is. My FC is a N/A with a bad paint job and a perfect interior, the guy I got it from was selling it for $1400 in the newspaper, and when I got there it wouldn't start so i talked him into selling it for $650. So far its had about 2 problems since I've had it. If you want a TurboII in perfect condition its going to be around $5000. Which I don't recommend, look for a low mileage N/A or Turbo (because they are both good for drifting, turbo if you want more power down the road) with a good enigine. DON'T worry about paint jobs and interiors, woory about the condition of the engine (because we all know looks don't matter). Also, if you have good tires, drifting will be easier than driving. Almost any form of drifting is easy in an FC except power drifting because they don't have enough power stock to send the car sideways.My overall suggstion is to go with an FC3S RX7.

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      • #18
        defiantfc3s- Id have to disagree with you.
        Most drift 240s have the SRto emulate the silvia, not because its better. Both engines are good.
        Now, if you are a ricer and gotta have the latest JDM fashion the SR20 is for you. But, if you are an 240sx owner that is within a limited budget (most are) preppeing and turboing the KA will provide better/cheaper results.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by defiantfc3s
          One last thing don't boost an N/A 13b motor because the stock compression and boost will cause your rotor housing to explode.
          who told you that? I'm in the process of turbo'n my n/a 13b and with proper fuel mods you can safely boost 10-14 lbs of boost w/o problems.

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          • #20
            If you are dealing with FC's or FD's, go to the owners...check out www.rx7club.com , You will find any little bit of info you want there.

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            • #21
              theflatlander: Why would you tune an N/A 13B to take the pressure of turbo when you could just turbo the Turbo II 13B? It's just freakin' stupid. Keep the engine N/A. Its more reliable and you won't have to tune the engine to keep cool. And yes, the rotor housing will wear out if you boost the compression of an N/A engine, because the compression in the N/A engine is much higher than the Turbo II and doesn't need boost, just air and fuel upgrades. That's why you can boost the Turbo II without problems.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by defiantfc3s
                theflatlander: Why would you tune an N/A 13B to take the pressure of turbo when you could just turbo the Turbo II 13B? It's just freakin' stupid. Keep the engine N/A. Its more reliable and you won't have to tune the engine to keep cool. And yes, the rotor housing will wear out if you boost the compression of an N/A engine, because the compression in the N/A engine is much higher than the Turbo II and doesn't need boost, just air and fuel upgrades. That's why you can boost the Turbo II without problems.
                "Cause 1: i want more power than a stock port n/a with every bolt-on could ever have.2: It'll cost me less to do than a TII swap 3: I want to be different. Another thing don't treat me like i'm a newbie with rotary, i've delt with them for almost 3 years now and have done my homework. A turbo n/a tuned for 10lbs of boost is just as realiable as a turbo II but faster.

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                • #23
                  The only real bad things i have heard about Rotaries are bad emissions(does any one but hippies and money hungry goverment officials really care?)and somewhat poor reliability of seals. But, in my mind these things really dont matter(well maybe the seals but those could be replaced).

                  By the way any1 kno of online stores that sell roatary engines?

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                  • #24
                    damnn well if u guys want a nice motor built for your rx-7 i noe just the place! ROTARY POWER its in gardena, ca the # is 310-516-9959 they build some awesome asss motors trust me i mean tehy do have their own drift car!

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                    • #25
                      Turbo 13b N/A

                      Turboing a 13b N/A sounds like a good idea to me aslong as you can get the fuel management system set up and keep from detonating. I imagin if you run a turbo through a motor with compression that high stock you would need some high octane fuel. I would see why everyone would be shying away from it. If you build it right, and you can get the boost out of it that you are saying on the stock compresion then you will have a very powerful motor. I'd like to the see the numbers when you are done.

                      Lucidstrife

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                      • #26
                        Re: Turbo 13b N/A

                        Originally posted by LucidStrife
                        Turboing a 13b N/A sounds like a good idea to me aslong as you can get the fuel management system set up and keep from detonating. I imagin if you run a turbo through a motor with compression that high stock you would need some high octane fuel. I would see why everyone would be shying away from it. If you build it right, and you can get the boost out of it that you are saying on the stock compresion then you will have a very powerful motor. I'd like to the see the numbers when you are done.

                        Lucidstrife
                        Stock compression on a S4 n/a rx-7 is 9.4:1 so it's no that high, and octane level would be 91 or higher just like and other turbo motor. I haven't seen any dyno numbers but have seen 1/4 mile times in the 12s on a stock port turbo n/a at 10psi

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                        • #27
                          Hate to burst your bubble Defiant but an SR20 in a 240 isn't fast at all in stock configuration. The red tops 205 at the crank and you are lucky to get 160 at the wheels on a stock (usually worn out engine)swap. If the SR's had easily twice the horsepower that the KA's do it would have to have 320 HP. No freaking way they have that much from the factory. Just because you swap in an SR, doesn't mean you are all of a sudden wonder boy. The difference lies in tuning. Much easier to pull bigger horsepower out of an SR than a KA. More aftermarket too. That's the difference. There's a super clean turbo'd KA here that is pretty fast. I'll post some photo's later. Think he pushes around 240 at the wheels. Been driving it like that for 2 years and no problems.

                          Matter of fact, a beginner to mid range Drifter can do the same thing with a KA, don't need an SR. The engine don't make the Drifter, the Driver does.
                          Last edited by Ghost of Duluth; 07-23-2004, 01:58 AM.

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                          • #28
                            A well maintained rotary will run long and strong. My car has 200k miles on it and it pulls better then many cars out there. I would just say run 2stroke oil in your gas, and never miss an oil change or anything and you will be golden.

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                            • #29
                              Wheres gardena CA?

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by otakugt4
                                A well maintained rotary will run long and strong. My car has 200k miles on it and it pulls better then many cars out there. I would just say run 2stroke oil in your gas, and never miss an oil change or anything and you will be golden.
                                how it works with the 2 stroke oil in the gas?? why?? and whats the benefit?? that doesnt damage the engine?? do you recomend it??

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