No announcement yet.


  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • brakes

    oaky i am having a HUGE argument about brakes.......

    i say slotted and cross drilled will be usefull and stop better

    i have a friend that says other wise he swears its useless unless ur on a race track

    i say its totally useful

    the slotted and cross drilled prvide heat transfer and help the gases created while braking escape easyer......i know my stuff......

    i needed more proof and some back up on the info so please respond if you know what ur saying

    thanks alot everyone here at drifting.,com

  • #2
    Well, there's a big debate about, but it seems that solid rotors with cooling ducts work the very best for a street driven vehicle.

    You're right in that slotted and cross-drilled rotors probide better cooling, and they are also lighter due to the removal of material. However, less material means less surface area to brake with, so unless the benefit of lightened rotors outweighs the sacrafice of material, solid rotors will be better.

    Having increased cooling via removed material rather than cooling ducts will also cause your rotors to warp earlier than with solid rotors because of the continual heating and cooling of the metal. Having a tougher brake pad like on a race car (most of which need to be heated up before they will do much of anything) can contribute to warpage as well.

    With OEM-sized solid rotors and cooling ducts in conjunction with multiple-piston brakes and high-performance street pads, you can probably make the best setup for a daily driven car. You will get the longevity of solid rotors with no decrease in mechanical advantage to to larger rotors, no increase in rotating mass due to larger rotors, increased cooling from air ducts and increased stopping pressure from multiple pistons and heavier-duty pads.



    • #3

      would a 4 piston front and a 2 pistion rear work well? what would be a good setup for that ?

      well thanks alot !!!


      • #4
        the most impotant thing in cooling is to have directionaly veined rotors as they act like a fan and suck air threw the rotors.

        Older pad compounds would create small air pockets because the material used would give off gases as the hit high temps. So slots where developed to help gases and material to escape from the pad surface.

        Drilled rotors are done to cool the pad surface at the same time as the rotors and are just a fashion statement without the directional veins and good ducting.
        BattleVersion Mishimoto DDay Kaaz G-Dimension P2M BrianCrower CPpistons K&Wautobody RaysWheels SpeedOMotive Rotora AIT Racing AODA HouseOfKolor CompetitionClutch BullseyePower


        • #5
          Originally posted by AlexPfeiffer
          the most impotant thing in cooling is to have directionaly veined rotors as they act like a fan and suck air through the rotors.
          Expelling hot gasses out at the center and sucking fresh air in from the edges.

          Originally posted by AlexPfeiffer Older pad compounds would create small air pockets because the material used would give off gases as the hit high temps. So slots where developed to help gases and material to escape from the pad surface.
          Is this still a problem? I was under the impression that newer compounds are capable of achieving little to no gaseos release. Are you talking about asbestos-era brake pads?

          As for a 4/2 piston setup, you could run the same size rotor on both front and rear (11" would be suitable for a ~2200lb/1000kg car) since braking force will be staggered front to rear. If rotor longevity is less of a concern than ultimate braking force, slotted/drilled rotors ought to be used. Some 4.5" foil dryer vent hose going from an inlet at the front of the car to a bracket on the spindle should provide a good flow of cold air (but make sure to use metal fasteners rather than zip-ties or something which could melt). With more pistons to push, upgrading to braided steel lines and a more serious master cylinder with a proportioning valve wouldn't be a bad idea by any means, but isn't mandatory. Top it all off with the street performance pad of your choice and you'll have yourself a sweet brake setup!
          Last edited by mranlet; 07-20-2004, 05:52 AM.


          • #6
            oaky oaky i have many mixed feelings about stoptech and brembo...i was underimpression that brembos were the SH!t.....but stoptech makes some really costlly stuff....wahts up with that then i know endless are wahts up.....they are awwsome as welll...well OH and Project Mu arent they good too? and willwood?

            can anyone explain to me the ups and downs of these different systems?


            • #7
              Try experimenting with pads first before you spend $2000 for a caliper/rotor setup


              • #8
                Slots and drills also effect cooling by giving the rotor more surface area (dispite lowering the surface area touching the pads) which potentially can cool the rotor faster. which in theory could cool the pads quicker. However the question becomes do the benefits outway the cost? afterall if theres less surface area touching the pad then the rotor cant absorb as much heat from the pad even if it can dispense it alittle better.

                So theres the reasoning behind it anyways. For cooling slots and drills it almost seems better to just have them on the area not touched by the pad.. giving you maximum surface area for the pad and cooling. But thats just me thinking about it, im not an expert on brakes or themal systems.


                • #9
                  i want the best......i have an FC and want a big brake kit and cross drilled rotors...on my


                  • #10
                    Are you pushing more than stock power? If not, no need for brakes, they're overrated anyway


                    • #11
                      Brakes are a yet another passion of mine. Usually stock brakes are up to the task as long as you upgrade fluid, pads and lines. (Up to a point... if you're running 50hp+ more than stock sounds about right) My e30 has Ate Superblue fluid, (higher boiling point than normal DOT3 fluid, both dry and wet) Axxis Ultimate Pads (higher coefficient of friction, better temp range) and Ate Powerslots up front and I haven't had any fade problems, and the brakes are easily modulated.

                      But... on topic again, drilled/slotted/drilled-and-slotted rotors won't do anything for initial stopping distances. (And may even increase them, like MR says.) It's all in the fade resistance, so the repeated stopping distances will decrease. Even so, without a better set of pads, you might as well just burn money. Brakes should be replaced with upgraded pads, and with proper ducting, blank discs should be more than adequate, especially if you're not going to be doing any HPDEs or extended-length drifting. (Even then, with a good set of pads, it'll be good.) Replace the fluid with Ate Superblue (or the Ate gold fluid) or Motul RBF600 and you're golden. Unless you're packing the heat or visting tracks on a regular basis, an upgrade to gigantic brakes is worthless except for the bling value.

                      Also, grippier tires will lead to shorter stopping distances, so if you upgrade the brakes without upgrading the tires, there's no point. (Unless you're running really grippy tires already)
                      Last edited by GRiDRaceTech; 07-19-2004, 05:42 PM.


                      • #12
                        well i plan on running around 400 RWHP in my FC using a T04E......and some other things....

                        but i totally understand waht u mean it would be useless to do it unless u need taht kinda stoping power also dont they begin to work after you warm them up?


                        • #13
                          Racing pads need a warm-up, decent street/track pads shouldn't.


                          • #14
                            +1 to Grid

                            If you can push down on the pedal and lock up the front tires, then you need tires before brakes. Lightweight wheels (Motegi now makes some 10-lb'ers!) and grippy tires will improve your stopping distance and all-around handling right away.

                            As with anything in tuning, the added performance will demand that you make some sacrafices to reliability and durability. A 400-hp rotary-powered FC is going to be a bear to drive on the street, especially with gas prices the way they are. If this is really what you want to do, then it's probably safe to assume that you are putting track performance higher on the priorities list than streetability. Nonetheless, you'll still want a good set of street pads.

                            In the hierarchy of what to upgrade first pads and fluid are at the top of the list, with braided lines and cooling ducts (IMO) coming in soon after that. A higher pressure master cylinder will also help, if there is one to be found for the FC (maybe try a 929?). With all of these things in place and a trained right (or sometimes left) foot, even the stock calipers and rotors will serve you well - in my Legacy Turbo I had braided lines, cooling ducts, "Greenstuff" pads (don't remember the company, maybe Mu?) and an aftermarket fluid (also don't remember) sent to the ground through some steelies and Pirelli P-Zero's. Even with the stock 4-wheel discs and OEM calipers I was outstopping Porsches and even some Motorcycles!

                            For a model of an awesome brake setup (and high-collar ones), check out the brake system on the HKS Time Attack EVO:

                            Those are 11" in the rear I believe with 4-piston calipers and Endless(?) pads. Up front the setup is the same with 6 pistons instead of 4. Super Street has some awesome pictures of the HKS EVO this month, and the fast facts would say all of the setup stuff.

                            The Xanavi Silvia:

                            ...also runs 11" up front with slots only with 6-piston AP racing calipers. I remember reading somehting in Racecar Engineering that the holes in the hat are pins that the single-lug wheels lock in to, but that the pins are hollow, allowing the hot gases to be pushed out by incoming air forced inward by the fins within the torot - probably not somehting you'll be able to do on a street car.

                            Hope this helps! (pictures are cool!)

                            Last edited by mranlet; 07-20-2004, 07:58 AM.


                            • #15
                              IMO drilled-and-slotted rotors are redundant and a bit worthless, cross drilled did the job well enough but the rotors were usually weakend by the cross drilling process, so to solve this I think it was mazda, that developed (or was first to use stock) the slotted rotor which did were stronger than cross drilled and cooled just as well or better, nwo we have aftermarket companies, going hey lets do both and everyone will think they are better,

                              another thing is if you *Censored**Censored**Censored**Censored* up the porportioning the rear tires will lose there stopping effect and increase you stopping distance like they mentioned before, HX-50 and I were argueing about this one night and he said some things that made sense, first was, that stopping distances aren't always the most important things, sometimes brake fade, is more important, and sometime, drivers will keep an unbalenced break set up to suit thier driving style, it might help in oversteering around some turns in a rally, anyway, good luck with you search, yes stop tech and project mu are the *Censored**Censored**Censored**Censored*, I prefer fixed calipers instead of floating, and stop tech makes some good ones,