Tweet
Just wondering if you guys could tell me the good and bad parts of having an SR engine. Besides the usual like it being iilegal and not passing smog... The one I'm looking at has about 35-50k miles on it. Now that I have a good paying job I have a little money to spend on the side. Alright, thanks in advanced.
-
-
hmm the actual swap is a hassle unless your paying for labor.
and its hard to come buy a good priced ecu and wireing harness if your missing them. i say, if you have a ka thats less than 100k and its in good condition TURBO IT! use what you got! then by the time that blows go for the sr...that my 2 cents
-
why not go for the ca18?
it's only rated at 175 horses but its cheaper, revs higher and can handle more boost and wear and tear because of its cast iron block
...plus if anything breaks there are parts more readily available for it in the U.S. (the s12 200sx had the single cam ca18 turbo motor in it)
...a lot of people overlook this engine but in effect its just as good as an sr20...i guess its really all about what you wantComment
-
im pretty sure a few belts and the alternater are japan only parts, so if they (and a few other things) go out, you'll have to have them imported or locate a distributer.Comment
-
Okay I'm considering the turbo, but do you have any recomendations? And also, is it true that cops will pull you over if they hear the "hissing" noise?
Well here's the specs of the SR engine im lookin at:
Engine Spec:
Turbo Type: T25G
Compressor A/R: 0.80
Injector Size: 320cc
Performance: SR20DET
Power (ps): 205 @ 6000 rpm
Torque (kgm): 200 @ 4000 rpm
Compression Ratio: 8.5:1
Stock Boost: 7 psi
(standard start up warranty)
This is what you will receive with this Engine:
Transmission (5 Speed) RWD
Engine Wires
ECU
Intake Manifold
Alternator
A/C
Power Steering Pump
All Brackets
Turbo
Coil Packs
Intake Sensors
Bolt in a 1989-1996 USDM 240sx.
So is it worth it, for 1,650 with shipping?Comment
-
there is no way they would pull you over for a "hissing" noise, how would the SRT-4 be legal if they did that?Comment
-
Here's a hot turbo KA thats here in Knoxville. Put's 240 to the wheels I think. Clean install too.
Comment
-
where you getting your motor from?Comment
-
You can now build a complete SR through one dealership in So. Cal. They import the parts that aren't made stateside. The belts are easy to get here.
Gates K050370 for the alternator, K040345 for powersteering and AC.
timing chain is compatable with the sr20de (91 SE-R), ditto with the thermo, oil filter, valves, valve springs, etc. The cross compatability charts are widely available. Just don't fall prey to the bad info about the 300zx turbo gasket fitting the SR's t25. The only one that'll work there is the square one, not that weird shaped on that connects to the extension.
Alternator you can use a DOHC one as long as you change the pulley.
Stuff that's not found stateside readily are water pumps, front cover, pistons, and probably a few other parts but not coming to mind right now.
Between the KA and the SR, the SR's lacking a bit at the bottom end compared to the KA. That was some of the more fun range for me and I miss it, but I forget about it once the turbo starts to spool. once smog time comes around, I'll be asking a friend to hook it up and unless you've got contacts or can come up with one fast when smog time comes around. It'll cost you a bit and will be a hassle but not too bad once you get it.
The KA, well for me the SOHC was alot easier to work on. Everything was pretty easy to get to and it's a bit of a hassle on the SR. Also you take a bit of a gamble when buying parts if you haven't double checked compatability but for the most part it's all pretty accurate.
Oil changes for the SR are a PITA. The oil filter is in a horrible place, behind the alternator and in front of the intake manifold support.
If you're heavy handed with a wrench, you'll hate taking parts off and putting them on the softer aluminum block/head. You have to be careful not to overtorque or you'll cause some serious damage to threads. With the KA it's still an issue but the iron block's alot more forgiving when it comes to threads than the soft aluminum.
The actual install is pretty easy. If you're unsure of the wiring, get it sent off to Heavy Throttle. I did the everything involved with the motor and getting it run. From rebuilding, wiring, installing, and the trouble shooting myself and it wasn't too bad minus the loose connection somewhere in the engine harness that was causing an oscillating idle.
Between the KA and the SR, you can't really go wrong either way. They'll cost about the same if you take more conservative precautions with the KA (rebuilding if necessary, upgrading internals, etc) all the way to the actual install of the turbo for the KA then it'll give the SR a run for it's money and have the lower end torque (granted you use a t25 and other things are pretty much the same between the two) and parts will be less of a headache since they should be all pretty readily available stateside without having to look at parts charts.Comment
-
The SR20 is a bloody great engine, with a fat wad of mid-end torque
And to whoever said go the CA18, because it has more parts support and can handle more boost, the SR20 is actually a fair bit stronger, and they can handle 450hp with the stock block and pistons etc. So there isn't really a need to go for the CA18, as the SR20 is a very reliable engine (provided you don't rev it over 7000rpm... much)
The SR20 also has so much after market parts available for it you can basically have a streetable (provided it's legal) 400hp+ without too much outlay for parts
Go the SR
Comment
Comment