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**jaydm180sx** · 07-30-2004, 04:31 PM

very informative!

**blargonator** · 07-31-2004, 12:28 AM

indeed.

**hatebbobbarker** · 08-06-2004, 07:56 PM

where do you drive fiugre8s at?

i guess install it at midnight and find a shopping center...

**Simon Danhoff** · 08-19-2004, 01:57 PM

Thanks for the information!

**_PG_** · 09-10-2004, 08:24 PM

One thing to note: Kaaz LSDs do NOT like synthetic oils like Redline or many other store bought oils. THough it may seem like they want you to keep giving them money for no reason, BUY KAAZ fluid for those types of Diffs. NIsmo on the other hand comes with their own fluid when you buy a kit. On the tin it says "Full Synthetic". I use Redline Synthetic in my Nismo S.S.S. diff, for reference.

ALso, take care of your diff. I broke mine in last November, changed the oil to the Nismo fluid in the begining of December, and did not change it to Redline until August!!!!!! BAD! That was with plenty of street/mountain drifting and a couple of track drift events per month!!!!!!!

Luckily I bought my diff brand new, so there was no noticeable damage and i did a good job breaking it in and there were no metal shavings or residue in the oil, it was all the same consistency, not chunky, it was just darker than new fluid. I consider myself lucky. Rule of thumb is every couple track events (if you go) change the fluid. Or what... like 3,000 miles or so.

Also, pick an LSD that fits your drifting style. For instance Hariguchi (yellow BN Sports FC3S RX7... you've all seen it) has a 1 way LSD. He uses a lot of feint and clutch kick drifts, meaning he needs good turning response. (no locking under braking or weight shift forward), then clutch kick and a lot of power on means diff is locked when accelerating through drift.

Koguchi uses a 2 way LSD, since his style is more rounded and uses a lot of shift lock or braking drift/weight transfer to initiate.

Just some examples. I personally drive more like Hariguchi or Miki (1.5 way) but my S.S.S. is 2-way right now. Since i can, i will change the casing to be 1.5 way (on S.S.S. and G.T. Pro Nismo diffs the casing is cut to both 2 and 1.5-way patterns, all you do is disassemble it an rotate the cage 45 degrees, then reinstall).

Hope this helps.

**jasonaries** · 09-13-2004, 10:16 AM

Question on acceleration note in illustration.

So, is that "accelerate through a range of 20 km per hour per gear" - in a 5 speed, that's topping out at about 60 mph or 100 km per hour, then hitting the brakes and turning at the end of the figure eight.

If so, then I gotta find a BIG place to do this next spring when I get my new diff....

**drfsupramk2** · 10-15-2004, 10:16 AM

they need to make a kazz for the supramk2

**mjk180** · 10-16-2004, 04:06 AM

Good Stuff

I was just gonna post a question about all this stuff... but the Kaaz guy read my mind.

My questions:

Is a Kaaz also adjustable from 2 to 1.5?

Is a 2 way fully locked almost all the time? i.e., is a 2-way locked and 1-way more like stock? Someone please expand on this area.

Thanks.

**mjk180** · 10-16-2004, 04:10 AM

One more question...

What is the better style diff for newbies?

Which one requires more skill to handle?

**hatebbobbarker** · 10-16-2004, 09:50 AM

Re: One more question...

Originally posted by mjk180
What is the better style diff for newbies?

Which one requires more skill to handle?

everyone is gonna tell you 1.5 is good for newbies and 2 way requires more skill to handle, but 90% of those people have never even driven 2 way so take that with a grain of salt.

**_PG_** · 10-16-2004, 11:34 AM

Something i wrote a while ago for the Zilvia.net archive and FAQ:

"There are various types of LSDs. For our cars, there are Viscous, which uses a fluid filled sac that expands with heat (Fritction) to lock the output shafts, and then there are mechanical. Mechanical means that the LSD in engaged or not due to interaction between 2 (or more) set, mechanical parts. This category inclused CLUTCH and HELICAL type LSDs.

For road racing, Helical type is more desirable, because it acts like an open diff while turning in and such. If I am not mistaken, it does not lock the two output shafts to spin at the same rate, but rather it biases torque to the wheel with more grip up to 80%. Shiet, you know what, its been a while. If I weren't on a slow *Censored**Censored**Censored* computer running Windows 95 i would search google for QUAIFFE or HELICAL LSDs and dig up some diagrams and a more in depth explanation.

Ok, other type of Mechanical LSD, clutch type. Clutch type LSDs use a center cam that moves under torque changes within a casing. The casing is 2 parts (L and R) and is symetrical in that sense. However, the cuts in the casing making the notches for the cam to slide in are not. That determines 1, 1.5, or 2 way LSD. As the cam slids in the notch it pushes the casing outward, which engages a series of clutch discs, some attached to the casing, some to the output shafts. When engaged, both output shafts will rotate at the speed of the casing, making both axles, and subsequently, wheels, rotate at the same speed.

Now back to the notches:

A 1 way notch is cut like an upside down triangle. While the cam can push backward against the tapered edges, expanding the casing, it cannot push forward against the flat surface. Therefore under acceleration torque (cam rotating backwards) it will lock, and under deceleration torque, when the cam is forced to rotate forward due to forces from braking, engine braking, etc.. it will just contact a flat "wall" and the casing will not expand.

A 1.5 way notch is like an upside down triangle with a more flat trangle on top of it. During acceleration it will expand the casing at one rate, and during deceleration, it will still expand the casing, but due ot the cuts' higher angles, it will require more force to move the casing apart. Therefore, only during Very hard braking will it have enough force pushing it forward to expand the casing.

Need it be said that a 2 way then is shaped just about like a diamond? Where it requires almost the same amount of acceleration or deceleration to force the casing apart. Usually, the top cuts are slightly more dramatic, making the 2 way still require slighlty more deceleration force to push the cam to expand the casing.

Ok, there is more. The more the casing expands, the more clutches contact each other, and the more the output shafts get locked into the same rotation. Now there are adjustable diffs (like Nismo SSS and GT Pro)where you can set a breakaway torque. That means that the cluch discs get moved closer together or further apart to dictate the SOFT, MED, or HARD setting. The closer the clutch plates are to each other, the sooner the output shafts, and thus the wheels, will spin in sync.

*I didnt edit any gramatical or spelling errors. Yes, i know they are there. Deal with it."

Cliffnotes: Under decel, 1-way will act like open diff... 1.5 will take longer to lock the wheels into the same rotations, and 2 way is almost instantaneous (good for drifting, not terrible for grip once you get used to it... i grip my car a lot since i drive mountain roads everyday...)

While in a parking lot or making a U-turn or whatever, 1 and 1.5 way diffs will usually act like open diff. With 2-way LSD it will sometimes actually have enough acceleration to lock. Thus making a skipping or clunking and scaring the little old ladies at Von's Supermarket. LOL. Of course if any clutch-type diff is packed tight enough or on a hard setting it should do this as well.

As for which one is best for beginners? Well, 2 way is harder to get used to, as it actually makes you understeer more during certain circumstances. It all depends on your style though... if youa re smooth a 2 way is a must. If you are like me and are into feint, clutchkick, side brake, etc etc a 1.5 is actually a little more helpful because it allows you a little bit more turning without sliding. But hey, I use a 2-way and I love it. I think i could do just as good with 1.5 but I don't feel liek taking my SSS casing apart to align the cam with the 1.5 way cuts (Nismo SSS and GT Pro are cut to be changeable between 1.5 and 2 way as well as adjust breakaway torque setting).

What it comes down to: get a mechanical, clutch type diff for drifting. Anything is good, you will learn how to use it. If a 1.5 way is $300 and a 2-way is $900 (there is no difference in price, when new this is just an example), get the 1.5 way since in this case it will save you loads of money. Even if you "want" a 2 wya. The differences aren't so noticeable that you will suck with one, and run D1 with the other....

As for 1 way, these are usually for FF cars where you don't want any locking under deceleration while turning because they already have enough understeer and locking the drive and TURNING wheels into the same rotational speed is suicide! Nothing but understeer (FF sucks for sports driving haha). Sometimes you'll see 1 way diffs used on RWD cars (good for grip i suppose) but for drifting, I like the 1.5 and 2-way because during off throttle or throttle modulation on/off it keeps the whels spinning. Soemtimes in a 1 way this would make the wheels roatate at their own speed and you can grip/lose drift if this happens. Whatever works though...

**Weapon X** · 10-16-2004, 01:01 PM

Damn that's one hell of a post *applause*.

**mjk180** · 10-16-2004, 05:50 PM

Thanks!

Great post. Just what I was looking for...

**zerodrifter** · 10-18-2004, 06:49 AM

exelent explination. I was waz looking into kazz and lsd's for a while and this has actuall been the most help.

also nice post _pg_

dudes got knolage

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Limited Slip Differential (L.S.D.) FAQ by KAAZ U.S.A.

Limited Slip Differential (L.S.D.) FAQ by KAAZ U.S.A.

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