2time oil into a RE???

[twcfc3s]

i read in some thread that (obiously i cant find) the 2 time oil was good into the rotary engine...i drive an FC so thats kinda intrusting...i wanna know if that works and wich are the bennefits of it...

please help

[180fan]

might want to be careful with double the recommended oil levels. I'm not too sure about the rotaries but with piston motors, too much oil in the crank case will cause frothing and can cause pretty bad damage to your motor from poor lubrication. Might wanna ask around in rotary specific boards about that before doing it.

[Ghost of Duluth]

I wouldn't do it. Anything that deviates from the exact specs in a Rotary is bad. They tend to blow up at the word boo so I wouldn't tempt fate.

[Wayne]

Boo

[Feint]

Originally posted by BlueDragon871
Boo

BAM!!!!!
There goes the apex,water seals,and the mighty O-ring

Extra oil causes bubbles,and creates even less viscosity.I can't see the benefits of having too much oil.The oil would probably bubble,create air,wear thin,not ignite right,then create detonation..Which creates the above.

[Ghost of Duluth]

You also have to consider that too much oil creates pressure as well. Excess pressure cause seals to leak, mountains to crumble and virgins to get sacrificed on the Rotary cross. I still say no.

Boo, darn there went another one.

[kaosman]

I think he's referring to 2-stroke oil...

For those who don't know...the rotary engine in its current form, requires oil from the crankcase to be injected into the engine itself. This is accomplished by 4 oil injectors (2 on the FD). There is a device called an oil metering pump that injects the correct amount of oil.

This can cause problems for 2 reasons. 1, 4-stroke oil does not burn well and can leave ash and deposits behind. These deposits can gunk up the tiny seal grooves in the rotors and lead to a loss of compression later on. 2, unless you change your oil like a maniac, your dirty oil is what ends up getting burnt and further clogs the seal grooves.

The alternative is to block off the OMP and run premix. Yep, the same stuff you put into a dirtbike, lawnmover, etc. You mix it with your fuel instead of using the stock setup. 2-stroke oil is designed to burn with almost no deposits left, so it will keep the inside of the engine a lot cleaner with better compression over engine life.

There are other reasons to dump the OMP, like running a standalone EMS on a S5 & S6 engine where the OMP is electronic and controlled by the ECU.

twcfc3s, if you reply to this I'll tell you more about how to do this.

[twcfc3s]

youre right kaos... i was refering to the 2 stroke oil, and sorry i didnt remember how to wrote it..

[twcfc3s]

and yes ill like to know more about these...my e mail is astrozombiedk@hotmail.com if you have msn messesnger agreed me...

[Ghost of Duluth]

Send me that info as well please. May save #5. sixgunsports@yahoo.com

[kaosman]

I'll just tell ya here, I don't have access to Messenger or email where I'm at.

If your car is a Series 4 (1986-1988) then it's straightforward. You'll need to get your upper intake manifold off to access the oil injectors. You'll know em when you see em, they're little metal cylinders with vacuum hoses on them, with a clear (or browned depending on age) tube going into each one. If you follow the tubes, they'll go towards the front of the car and down over the water pump, to the oil metering pump on the passenger side of the engine, right next to the main pulley.

Unscrew the injectors and remove the oil lines, and unbolt the OMP & remove the linkage attached to the TB. Buy some stubby M10x1.25 bolts and cap off the 4 holes left by the oil injectors. You can either buy a block-off plate for the OMP or make your own, I made my own out of standard sheet metal. Keep the stock o-ring gasket and bolt the plate in the stock OMP location. That's it!

If you have a Series 5 (1989-1991) then your OMP is controlled by the ECU and disconnecting it will result in a Check Engine light. Best thing to do is follow the above instructions, without worrying about the linkage. Leave the OMP in your engine bay hooked up to the ECU and that should leave the CEL off.

Now just make sure you ALWAYS use premix when you get gas. I run 8 ounces for every 13 gallons of gas. Some people say to run more, I never have and the times I've had my engine apart, its been fine. I've found that running more premix than this can cause a slight loss of performance...oil by its nature will drop the octane of your fuel. This isn't so much of a concern with a NA. Also be sure to run 2-stroke oil that has a TCW3 rating on it. This oil has been certified for use with fuel injection and is capable of the fuel-to-oil mixtures required for the 7. (8 ozs, 12 ozs, etc). This oil is light and will mix well with your fuel. I dump in my 8 ozs before filling up with gas, for even mixing.

[twcfc3s]

i knew that this thread will help some of us ( rotary mother *Censored**Censored**Censored**Censored*ers.) and yeah.. its a very intrusting technique to maintenance the RE..

[kaosman]

If you have the discipline to run 2-stroke every time you fill up, its the way to go. When I've torn down other rotaries that run the stock OMP, they're always a PITA to get the carbon off and clean up. Premix motors always almost look brand new when you strip em down, rotor cleaning doesn't take long at all.

BTW, if anyone's interested, here's my FC...

http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/member...iew&car_id=245

[twcfc3s]

ok, this is what im going to do, disconect the OMP and block where the oil injector where at with a plate or some thing. and then i will empty the oil pan and refuel the oil pan with 2 stroke oil. and thats it... or im just going to block the OMP and put 2stroke oil into the gas inlet...?

[kaosman]

Block the OMP off and run normal motor oil in your engine, run the premix in your gas, in the ratios I posted above.