If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Basically it's depressing the clutch one time to take the car out of gear then another time to clear synchros. You do this by taking the car out of gear then depressing the gas to bring the revs up to where the lower gear will be when the clutch comes out. Put it back in gear and when you let the clutch out, there is no drag on the drivetrain.
Heal toe combine this technique with braking in the same deal. 2 birds with one stone.
....hmmm...still confused, maybe i'd have to see it.
I heel/toe (sorta) at times and I understand that you have to match the revs, but the double part is beyond me.
thanks jiggas.
Double clutching is basically clutching in to move out of a gear into neutral then clutching in again to move from neutral into the next gear. It was a technique used way back when when there was no such thing as synchros in transmissions. Nowadays you don't need to do it.
Agreed, but in Drifting you will sometimes use a variation of this. A heel/toe is basically an evolved double clutch that allows braking at the same time. You take it out of gear then bump the revs up so that when you stick it back in the lower gear, your rpms are right there. Straight double clutching is, however, not necessary anymore unless you drive a lime green Eclipse, cause if you granny shift and don't double clutch lime green Eclipses they temporarily blow up for some unknown reason. But it's ok cause they magically fix themselves in about 3 mins It's just the hassle of waiting for them to do that.
Originally posted by Ghost of Duluth A heel/toe is basically an evolved double clutch that allows braking at the same time.
No, heel-toe is not a double clutch + braking, it is just a rev match + braking. Double clutching is more complicated than a regular rev match.
Double clutching is shifting to neutral between gear changes. And when I say shifting to neutral, actually letting the clutch out in N. And it's done as much, if not more so, on upshifts than on downshifts.
You can do a heel-toe downshift, and then there is the more complicated double clutched heel-toe downshift (not very practicle).
But you can pretty much forget double clutching anyway, serves little purpose with today's synchronized tranies. If your syncros are shot, it helps... I do it a lot.
Originally posted by Ghost of Duluth Agreed, but in Drifting you will sometimes use a variation of this. A heel/toe is basically an evolved double clutch that allows braking at the same time. You take it out of gear then bump the revs up so that when you stick it back in the lower gear, your rpms are right there. Straight double clutching is, however, not necessary anymore unless you drive a lime green Eclipse, cause if you granny shift and don't double clutch lime green Eclipses they temporarily blow up for some unknown reason. But it's ok cause they magically fix themselves in about 3 mins It's just the hassle of waiting for them to do that.
Thats why i bought my 240! my lime green 7 speed eclipse kept screwing up... i was going to paint it. but you know.. i couldnt deside on a color and i was going to a body shop but there were three different kinds..
this post adds nothing to the forum, i will delete it after a few hours.
I have to double clutch to downshift to any gear. I also have to wait for the right rpm to upshift. I've gotten VERY good at both. I guess my car has worn synchros.
No. Double clutching is supposed to be easy on the clutch. Its less wear and tear on the bearings.
The Heel-toe is like one guy said: its rev matching.
For example....Lets say Im in 3rd gear but the next turn requires me to be in 2nd. Before I even think about entering the turn, I need to be in second gear. Instead of slowing down with the brakes, I match the rpms that Im traveling at in 3rd gear, into 2nd gear. I do this by a "one-time blip" of the accelerater at the same time while downshifting. If done correctly, your car will not lug forward (caused by slowing down by the engine...not good) nor jerk (caused by reving too high). This method was taught to me by a friend of mine who used to drive a hachiroku. He told me they needed to use this method not only for fast lap times, but also because the crank pulley would snap because of the amount of stress on the engine due to just plain old downshifting. I do downshifting and hand steering techniques every day. When you get out there on the track, you won't have to think about it. It will be automatic.
"drift bible or Initial D" - because they're equivalent...
My CRX has kinda a half a synchro on between 1st and 2nd that I believe is shared with reverse, so the first shift is difficult w/o double clutching, but if you're good at rev matching it's not that hard to up or downshift.
Comment