FC Drifting Tips?

[eyecandy]

Power is the first thing people think you need, its the sterotypical first thought when it comes to drifting. Which it really comes down to suspension set up and driver experience/skill.

I am sure some of this already has been said but I am just going say it:

First is learn to get the feeling of the rear end kicking out, whether it be sliding in the reain, donuts, drfiting, spinning ot, whatever, just get use to the feeling!! At first when you begin if the rear kicks out like an inch, it seems like it kicked out 4 feet, its all becaue you are not use to it, but that wil come with time.

Car setup: This is what I recommend and in pretty much this order as well.

1. Toe Eliminators (make it much more predictable)
2. Upgraded clutch (you will end up burning out the clutch real fast)
3. Full Polyurethane bushing kit
4. Tie Rod ends w/spacers (elminates bumpsteer and adds 7 degrees mroe steering angle, which is realy needed on these cars)
5. Front strut bar or front fender braces and a rear strut bar ( I prefer a Roll bar over the rear strut bar)
6. Rear Camber adjuster (remove about all camber to 1 degree rear camber)
7. Coilovers/shock springs (depends on how hard core you are going to be, I recommend getting spring rates the same for front and rear, helps with the balance and control).
8. Rear sway bar (once you have established a good setup add a rear sway to swing out the rear easier)

Naturally, the givens are TIRES TIRES TIRES!! And do not use sticky up front and hard crappy in the rear, use the same tires all around. Becasue if you learn with sticky and shitty, when you switch to all sticky all around (to get higher speeds) you will have to relearn how to control the car.

I am sure thre is more I will add if I can think of anything esle.

[twcfc3s]

good info...that will save a wholebunch of threads....thanx eyecandy

[Wayne]

dont forget reliablity mods, what good is a driftable fc if its got a blown engine. i am a fd guru and im still learning about fcs. from what i kno about rotaries id get a radiator and a fmic.


any fc gurus wanna throw in the reliablity mods ?

[theflatlander]

^oil pellet, and like you said radiator, air venting, stiffer or new engine, tranny, and differential mounts-( diff. mount sucks nuts so you'll definatly want to replace or upgrade), get real gauges 'cause stock ones suck and are really inacurrate. For oil changes don't use synthetic unless it's really high grade stuff like, mobil 1, royal purple. reason being is 'cause lower grade synthetic doesn't burn nearly as well as high grade stuff causing a lot of build up of carbon and other bad stuff in the motor. Other than that i can't really think of anything more.

[eyecandy]

I had added a few to the drfit set up.

This doesn't really help with drifting but get upgraded high friction brake pads (preferably non or low metallic) They can be a life saver to you and your car, possibly even other people!

Well I really didn;t want to get into the reliabilty aspect of the RX7s, becuase my post would have been a mile long, and plus there are SO MANY variables. NA/TII stock/modded and so on....

I personally would hold off running a FMIC. I feel a FMIC should only be used with a upgraded turbo (do to stressing the turbo more, increasing compress air temps), which an upgraded turbo should only be used with a fuel management system. Just KEEP boost under 10psi with TMIC. Besides lower boost gives you: less heat + less of a chance of detonating = longer engine/turbo life.

If close to stock:
1. Upgraded RAD ( I recommend to keep the stock viscous fan, becasue if the clutch in the fans works, few aftermarket ones are even close to the CFM)
2. Oil Pan baffle plate (during high g-forces the oil creeps of the filler neck and you get oil starvation)
3. Silicon Vac hoses
4. Stainless Steel Oil cooler lines.
5. Fuel pump rewire (stock wiring sucks, gives higher more steady voltage)
6. S4 TIIs port the wastegate to about 23-25mm (eliminates boost creep)
7. Turbo cars, DO NOT runa full exhaust without a way to add more fuel *** Turbo cars: ONLY get an FCD IF you have the fuel to support the increased boost, other wise leave a catalytic converter on***

Fluids:
No more than 50/50 mix on coolant/water (over can eat away the o-rings)
Castrol 20w-50 engine oil
Using the stock MOP pump, run a 200-400:1 premix (if 200:1 run every other tank full)

IF used to drift alot, change oil every 1500miles, check oil and top off if needed after every event. You will be surprised at how much oil you will burn, on average running an opening lapping days with an FD (4-6 hours) you will burn 1 qt of oil, and FCs burn more oil.

On another note, if seeing alot of high rpms, get a pulley kit, it will allow the water pump to work mroe efficent, but if it will see alot of street driving stick with the stock pulleys.

Again I am sure there will be more....

[SidewaysGts]

Not sure if this was stated or not- but try to get a better radiator as well if you plan on doing extended "events".

Rotaries are hot engines as it is, add a turbo and heat is something to worry about, kidn of why i prefer the NA fc. Twin turbos on the FD, well you get the point.

keeping your engine cooler leads to a happier engine.

As youve probably seen do what you can to keep your oil "happy". Rotaries almost over use oil imo. Change it often and use the expensive stuff (its onyl a few bucks more- no reason not to).

[P1STON2ROTARY]

Originally posted by eyecandy

I personally would hold off running a FMIC. I feel a FMIC should only be used with a upgraded turbo (do to stressing the turbo more, increasing compress air temps), which an upgraded turbo should only be used with a fuel management system. Just KEEP boost under 10psi with TMIC. Besides lower boost gives you: less heat + less of a chance of detonating = longer engine/turbo life.

.....how does an fmic stress a turbo? (maybe 1% percent?)

First and foremost, how an ic works, obviously an IC is used to lower intake temps. The metal absorbs heat from the intake charge (cools the air before it enters the motor-cooler air is denser then hot, and contains more oxygen which will allow for a stronger combustion) . Air flows across the ic, cooling the metal slowly, readying it for the next intake charge.

1. TMIC- On a tII, the tmic is above the uim, and in close proximity to the turbo. The heat in the engine bay heat soakes the tmic rendering it's heat absorbtion muuch less efficient.

2. FMIC-Mounting an intercooler in the front allows for a larger core, which will allow more heat absorption. An FMIC is also placed away from the motor, so that it does not encounter heat soak. This would result in lower intake temps than a tmic could really provide.

EDIT, btw: Before running premix along side the omp, take into consideration that oil lowers the octane rating of fuel. azda spent countless hours and money figuring out the best ratio for every possible condition....And yes...they even had full throttle driving in mind.

[eyecandy]

Originally posted by P1STON2ROTARY
.....how does an fmic stress a turbo? (maybe 1% percent?)

First and foremost, obviously an IC is used to lower intake temps. The metal absorbs heat from the intake charge. Air flows across the ic, cooling the metal slowly, readying it for the next intake charge.

1. TMIC- On a tII, the tmic is above the uim, and in close proximity to the turbo. The heat in the engine bay heat soakes the tmic rendering it's heat absorbtion muuch less efficient.

2. FMIC-Mounting an intercooler in the front allows for a larger core, which will allow more heat absorption. An FMIC is also placed away from the motor, so that it does not encounter heat soak. This would result in lower intake temps than a tmic could really provide.

and btw the premix ratio is closer to 100:1 not 400

If you read closly, the 200-400:1 is if you are RUNNING the stock MOP, its added secruity.

It stresses a turbo more because of incresaed pressure drop, which is way more than 1%.

Yes a FMIC is better for cooling the IAT, but you have to take into account a few things. I just DO NOT consider a FMIC a relaibilty mod. While moving IAT temps are VERY close to the same, although see #2.

1. The larger core, and longer piping egual MORE pressure drop (up to 4psi!!!) You will need the turbo to work that much more.

2. By using a front mount you scarifce radiator cooling for the following reasons, there is air blockage from the IC being positioned infront of the Rad. Second with the position of all FMICs you have a gap of atleast 6 inches from the IC to rad, which slows the flow of the air going through the rad, added heat to the rad. For maxium airflow you want no more that 1" between the IC and Rad, and most people are not capable enough to do that for them selves.

3. The increased water temps, creates more heat in the block (ecspcially the rear rotor), where you want LESS heat, and where you are trying to take the heat away from.


If you want an IC for a reliablity mod then it would have to be a V-mount, but no one makes one for an FC (although I am actually designing one right now), and they require alot of skill to fab and are exspesnive to make!

[more_traction]

If you read closly, the 200-400:1 is if you are RUNNING the stock MOP, its added secruity

actually, it's more chance of detonation. if you insist on premixing, either use straight premix with no omp, or grab one of the feeder tube adapters from rotary aviation's website to use the stock omp to inject the 2-cycle oil. the more oil present in the combustion chamber, the greater the chance of detonation.

1. The larger core, and longer piping egual MORE pressure drop (up to 4psi!!!) You will need the turbo to work that much more.

i don't know where you got that info, but please do share it

2. By using a front mount you scarifce radiator cooling for the following reasons, there is air blockage from the IC being positioned infront of the Rad. Second with the position of all FMICs you have a gap of atleast 6 inches from the IC to rad, which slows the flow of the air going through the rad, added heat to the rad. For maxium airflow you want no more that 1" between the IC and Rad, and most people are not capable enough to do that for them selves.

i live in the desert where temps have been 100+ degrees all summer. my boost is set at 1 bar, and my temps stay right where i want them to. the trick is getting a thin front mount with lots of surface area to facilitate both good airflow through both it, and the radiator.

If you want an IC for a reliablity mod then it would have to be a V-mount, but no one makes one for an FC (although I am actually designing one right now), and they require alot of skill to fab and are exspesnive to make!

don't pat yourself on the back when you don't know all the aspects of what you're talking about.

[P1STON2ROTARY]

My bad on the first omp post, as you can see, i went back to change my post completely after reading that problem.

Wow Dave, don't know what to say. Welcome to the forums

[more_traction]

forgot to add...

While moving IAT temps are VERY close to the same,

my temps went down about 40 degrees under high boost when i installed the front mount


and...

For maxium airflow you want no more that 1" between the IC and Rad, and most people are not capable enough to do that for them selves.

tilt the stock radiator forward so it's closer to vertical, grab an e-fan, and shove hte intercooler in the new hole you just made if you want it close... anyone can do it!! most definately not the nearly impossible job you make it out to be.

[eyecandy]

actually, it's more chance of detonation. if you insist on premixing, either use straight premix with no omp, or grab one of the feeder tube adapters from rotary aviation's website to use the stock omp to inject the 2-cycle oil. the more oil present in the combustion chamber, the greater the chance of detonation.

I would like to know where you have that info, I know many people including my self taht runb both stock mop and premix, the premix in this case is used to prevent carbon build up, not to lubricate the seals. And yes it lowers the octane rating, but its fractional at that. If you are that picky then why run it at all?!?! LOL that was a joke!

LOL there are many arguements about this, and I really do not want to turns thread into "To premix or not to premix" Go to and RX7 forum for that!

i don't know where you got that info, but please do share it

Do search on pressure drops across sections of the IC, IC piping etc and you will be REALLY surprised, 3-4 psi is the norm.

i live in the desert where temps have been 100+ degrees all summer. my boost is set at 1 bar, and my temps stay right where i want them to. the trick is getting a thin front mount with lots of surface area to facilitate both good airflow through both it, and the radiator.

Well I guess it depends on where you are statified with your water temps, but I have yet to see a FMIC setup that keeps the water temps were i like them. HEre you are not talking about the same situations, cruising down the highway is one thing, try running your car on a track hitting 1 bar and let me know how long you can last before your engine starts to over heat. The max I have seen an FD with a FMIC run is 20mins beofre they had to come in and cool it down. My friends who run smic stay out there until the tank hits "E."

don't pat yourself on the back when you don't know all the aspects of what you're talking about.

I am sorry for knowing the fluid dynamics of air, and where the highs and low pressures are for maxium flow.


I hope you do not run 1 bar on a stock turbo, caues you are going to need a replacement real soon!

tilt the stock radiator forward so it's closer to vertical, grab an e-fan, and shove hte intercooler in the new hole you just made if you want it close... anyone can do it!! most definately not the nearly impossible job you make it out to be.

If you read it is possible, but NOT EVERYONE is capable!

[more_traction]

I would like to know where you have that info

why do you think engines knock when the rings go out??? oil lowers the octane of the fuel.

3-4 psi is the norm.

1-2PSI across the core is realistic. there is virtually no measurable drop across the pipes.

Well I guess it depends on where you are statified with your water temps, but I have yet to see a FMIC setup that keeps the water temps were i like them. HEre you are not talking about the same situations, cruising down the highway is one thing, try running your car on a track hitting 1 bar and let me know how long you can last before your engine starts to over heat.

185 is where i like the engine. if you can't get the coolant temps where you like them with a front mount, maybe you should think about what YOU'RE doing wrong--instead of blaming the intercooler. there are tons of people who don't have overheating issues with front mounts.

as for driving conditions, i climb the cajon pass---15 miles uphill in 100+ degree heat under boost without worrying about overheating... or i zip around town at high load/low speed with the same confidence. my engine doesn't overheat under any circumstances.