Energy Bushings

[sil180sx]

Originally posted by hokiruu
After my crash with my almost 10 year old S14, I have blown tension control rod bushings, a bashed drivers side tension rod bracket (banged it back with a big hammer for now), and extremely worn rear subframe bushings.
My first priority is the subframe, as it clunks horribly and has tons of play. I have been looking at both the "pineapple" rings and the aluminum collars and am not sure what I need. www.technotoytuning.com claims their aluminum collars are "compatible with drift pineapples", suggesting that both can be used in conjunction. However, Whiteline, Uras, etc. pineapples claim to be a good solution on their own. This car is daily driven and from time to time will be driven hard on the track and drifted as well.
Will just the pineaples be sufficient to eat up all the slop in my rear end or do I need aluminum instead/ as well?

Also, I have been considering what I should get between Energy Suspension bushings in my current rods, adjustable rods w. spherical ball pivots, and the Nismo power bar.

how could I get the best combination of tolerable ride harshness for street and still perform relatively well at the track?

Nismo bar + upgraded bushings?
Stock brackets + adjustable rods?

I can't afford EVERYTHING, and am not sure if I need it if I could. Sorry for all the questions, but I need experienced advice.

i just installed the uras subframe bushings... they make a big difference i have those only no aluminum and the ride is fine. also if you do get those i think on the directions there are 3 different ways to install them grip/drift/...... i forget what the other one was depending on how you set them up will make the ride a little stiffer. but yea if your building a car that is going to perform well on a track at drifting build the car for drifting not for street thats just my 2 cents

[enrique]

anybody know where I can get URAS products here in the US?

[hokiruu]

www.raretrick.com

[jboss]

I know this defys conventional INTERNET wisdom and even the wisdom of most "tuners"---who are just that, tuners not racers.....But, Polyurethane is NOT a good material for suspension bushings.

Here is the good:
Poly is stiffer than stock rubber
poly is easier to install than new rubber
poly is pretty cheap

Here is the bad:
Poly does not perform well in shear and is easier to tear than rubber.
Poly squeaks and must be lubed which attracts dirt and causes wear.
Poly wears Quickly
Poly binds in rotational aplications causing negative affects for the suspension

Other options:
Replace your OLD WORN bushes with NEW stock bushes.....Most of the folks on here have cars that are 10+ years old with original bushes. It is amazing what a difference replacement STOCK parts can make.

Many manufacturers (VW, Mazda, Toyota etc etc) sell stock parts with stiffer RUBBER in them from their factory racing departments. You just need to find out who sells them (often the dealer). Advantages: longer life, less movement, perfect fit (these are factory parts), no squeaking, no lubing, hard to tear....etc Disadvantage: Harder to find, a little more $$ than poly.

For a dedicated race car (not driven on the street) many bushings can be replaced by spherical bearings or heim joints. This option is ONLY good for race cars because they require proper maintenance in order to keep them safe. Benefits: No unwanted movement, No binding.....Disadvantages: $$$, difficult to install, require more frequent attention for safety.

[PearlBlueSoul]

Originally posted by jboss
I know this defys conventional INTERNET wisdom and even the wisdom of most "tuners"---who are just that, tuners not racers.....But, Polyurethane is NOT a good material for suspension bushings.

Here is the good:
Poly is stiffer than stock rubber
poly is easier to install than new rubber
poly is pretty cheap

Here is the bad:
Poly does not perform well in shear and is easier to tear than rubber.
Poly squeaks and must be lubed which attracts dirt and causes wear.
Poly wears Quickly
Poly binds in rotational aplications causing negative affects for the suspension

Other options:
Replace your OLD WORN bushes with NEW stock bushes.....Most of the folks on here have cars that are 10+ years old with original bushes. It is amazing what a difference replacement STOCK parts can make.

Many manufacturers (VW, Mazda, Toyota etc etc) sell stock parts with stiffer RUBBER in them from their factory racing departments. You just need to find out who sells them (often the dealer). Advantages: longer life, less movement, perfect fit (these are factory parts), no squeaking, no lubing, hard to tear....etc Disadvantage: Harder to find, a little more $$ than poly.

For a dedicated race car (not driven on the street) many bushings can be replaced by spherical bearings or heim joints. This option is ONLY good for race cars because they require proper maintenance in order to keep them safe. Benefits: No unwanted movement, No binding.....Disadvantages: $$$, difficult to install, require more frequent attention for safety.

on that note, also most pillow ball mounts for coil overs tend to create stress factures on the strut tops when you drive the car hard. too stiff for an older chassis to handle.

from experience on the MR2s at least, I WISH TRD's bushings fit right. people actually end up slicing some of the rubber off when they have to press them in. I've known people who actually break their presses trying to put them in, too.

not knockin' ya, but urethane isn't a bad solution for how cheep it is. Also it depends on the durometer you get as to how quick it may wear...another variable is if in the rotational locations that there isn't either 1) a zerk fitting on the housing someplace or 2) a metal sleeve. usually LCA's have metal centers which allow them to rotate on the bolt correctly. the sway bar bushings might need a bit of lube every so often but that's why most manufacturers who have their own u clamps to mount them to the chassis fit zerk fittings to them or make that option available and easily accessable.

Seriously not knocking you man...but there's alot more than meets the eye with poly. I happen to enjoy mine and I haven't had most of the issues you describe. Rubber is great, but also the kit I bought for my MR2, FULL replacement (except the strut tops) was around 150 bucks in urethane. Toyota wanted 400 for their TRD hardened rubber kit, and I might have it in 2 months.