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trust me you dont want a 300hp hachi if you want it do to be a multi use car. 300hp in one of those cars will be a beast to drive and defintely not for begginers. i wouldnt even think about drifting it without quite a bit of experience. Also a 300hp 4ag is going to be a engine at its limit and will probably be less the reliable. gl tho
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yea
about that
i want a car with power
but
i dont want a car where if i do one thing slightly wrong i have 15k explode in my faceComment
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ive driven my dads 70 chevelle 454
it puts out 450 hp and 500 ft lbs
it was so much fun
btw itl do the 1/4 in 13.2 seconds
i love my pops!
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oh yea
and it didnt seem like id lose control
it stayed with me even when i got on itComment
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some guy put a 2jz motor in his hachi. i dont see any reason to put that much power into it tho. i would just enjoy the car as it is. a nice lightweight balanced RACECAR!!! if you wreck the 240 it wouldnt cost that much... not as much as trying to get a 86 to 300... i dont see the point of this??
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have u ever heard that song
well im gonna give you the...
yeah whatevuh!
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like i said a 300hp hachi motor is a motor thats on the brink of detonating at any moment. so if your looking for reliability look elsewhere. your better off going for a sr20 powered 240sxComment
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i was thinking about that but i personally like the 86 betterComment
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i detect hostility
quick to the fetal position!Comment
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K it really sounds like you don't know much about cars. To get 300 HP out of a Hachi is ridiculous. It will cost you way more money than you think. Not only do you have to put your big turbo on it ( and let me tell you 25 psi IS large boost ) you also have to get a manifold made to do that, rebuild your engine, get proper fuel management and god knows what else. If it were as easy as you say it is, then everyone would be doing it. 300 hp is unattainable for the normal person, unreliable and just plain out goofy for a Hachi. Not needed. Also a Chevelle is a completely different car than a Hachi. I run 14.5 lbs of boost in my FD and make 342 at the ground. I got way more than 5 grand in that car to get that HP. With fuel, ECU, Turbos, Exhaust, Ignition and other things. You can do it but you'll blow it up first time out.
So go ahead and do it, waste your money. Post the pics of it when you are done. Until then this is a waste of a thread.Comment
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Well if you ask me, anything is possible. Weather or not this is economical or reasonable is another question, and should be answered by you as the builder/driver. You should probably be asking this question on the 4AG forums since they know specific information about the AE86 and its capabilities. I think the car is capable of doing everything you want (drift, grip, freeway), but doing it well in ALL those catagories is another question. And I'm not dogging the capabilities of the AE86 either. You must understand that different types of racing require different tuning. For instance, the suspension setup for a drag car is very different from a roadrace car. Another example, the powerband for a drag car is very different from what you would want in a drift or grip car. So it will take a lot of research (like you've said) to determine the best combination of parts.
The fastest freeway AE86 I've ever seen (in video) was the one in Japan with a high powered boosted 13B rotary. I'm thinking like 600+ rwhp but I dont remember the specs. Most good drift or roadrace AE86 I've seen (in video and IRL) have under 300rwhp. I've never seen an AE86 at the local drag strip run faster than 14's. I've never seen any video's either of an AE86 running faster than 14's. Not saying its not possible, but maybe you have more work ahead of you than you might think? So maybe you're looking at extreme chassis stiffening (weld the seams, chromoly 6 pt rollcage), a motor swap with upgraded turbo's, and some majorly adjustable suspension that would allow you to tune the car for both drag and roadrace. Its a pretty big deal to have a car that can do everything well. I have one car for freeway / drag and another for roadrace / grip.Comment
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If you get a big arse turbo for the 86 you can get rid of the turbo lag by using NOS to spool the turbine up faster, just like the pros Kazama and his s15, Maeda and his ae86, and imamura with his FD
and you get a good power boos too.Comment
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Sure it wasn't a 20B? I remember a certain tri-rotor hachi that did some pretty scary stuff.Originally posted by CrazyHawaiian
The fastest freeway AE86 I've ever seen (in video) was the one in Japan with a high powered boosted 13B rotary. I'm thinking like 600+ rwhp but I dont remember the specs.
As for the topic at hand, allow me to preface this by saying the person who posted this needs to do an extreme amount of research. Coming from owning 3 4AG powered vehicles and being neck deep in 4AGs for around 8 years, I can tell you this much...None of this should discourage you from making a Hachi perform to do D1, just realize what your goals are, and do research to figure out what you need to attain those goals. Right now the criteria you have is a tad lofty and you can achieve what you're looking for by just adjusting the power requirement. 200HP was what the block was designed to handle. really that's about it. much more than that and you're asking for trouble.
[dry humor]
300HP out of a 4AGE is possible, get a late model block, swap out the pistons for 8:1 comp and forged, get better conrods, get a good spooling ball bearing turbo, rework the cam timing and cams themselves, as well as switching to shim-under-bucket or one piece buckets from the Yaris, higher tension valve springs/titanium retainers, and get it port matched with a 4 runner intake manifold vs the usual TVIS 8 runner...and max boost will probably be 20psi sustained for approx. 10 runs at a time if you're lucky. Oh, and throw in the stroked HKS crank too with a knife edging and rebalance/blueprint at a really really f'n good machine shop.
you're looking at around 25/30 grand my friend. have fun. The 4AGE is NOT A POWER PERFORMER. it flat out is not designed to handle much more boost than a SC12 or the Previa SC14 without heavy and I mean HEAVY modification. The Toyota Atlantic version makes 240HP n/a, revs up to 11k rpms, and is fuel injected. However, due to the near 360* cam profile, 12mm lift on the valves and the extreme valve overlap, you will NEVER see one on the street because it cannot idle at all. Idle is nonexistant on the formula spec motor. You can buy the motor from toysport, but expect to spend at least $25,000. I can tell you that 20psi is not likely on a 4AG without lots of lag and/or too much pressure for any revision of the 4AG be it GZE or 20V, small port or large port. You will be replacing engines left and right, and 300HP is really unreliable on a 4AG.
The chassis is an entirely different animal as is the suspension. [/dry humor]Comment
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It might have been 20B! It all flew by so fast in Japanese I couldnt really tell LOL. It was the one where they are following the hachi and they both floor it. The one in front (the rotary one) just takes off and pulls away and in like 3-4 seconds you cant even see it anymore! BY then everyone in the camera car that was following is screaming like they're traveling warp speed or something! hahahah!! Crazy!!Comment
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humm no im not...but im also talking about at the wheels..Originally posted by Hachi-roku04
trust dont feel bad
im pretty new to most of this stuff so anything helps
the GT-S state side is rated at 112 at the flywheel...the japanese 4ag is 120..
the 80HP at the wheels comment is quite true..
when young version magazine did there US project AE86 it was dynoed at a blistering 83wheel HPComment
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