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  • #16
    Re: Rotary power

    Originally posted by GotNismo?
    ROTARY power!!!! ok i own a n/a fc3s and need more power!!!! ok should i beef up the current motor(110k miles) or jus find a turbo 2 motor?
    If you're going to stick with the stock motor and everything is in perfect working order i recommend getting full exhaust, ported intake manifold, throttle body mod with a port and polish, piggyback or stand alone, and then doing mods that'll accent the power you have, lightweight flywheel, clutch, diet for the car. now pending what series FC you you'll have to do something aboutyour aux. port activation ( s4's is activated via backpressure where as s5 is activared via air pump) now woth the s4 there are a few ways to activate the ports but requires some work, either by lumbar pump, air pump and a few others for how-to's you can search at rx7club.com, nopistons.com, and teamfc3s.org/forum, now with these's mods you're looking at a max of 160 to the wheels and that's with perfect compression.which will get you to runs high to mid 14's.
    If you want more power you can build the n/a motor, which pending on type of porting will give the car lots of power with not much streetability or some power and a lot of streetability but a street car is in the eyes of the driver so i'll let you pick. You could go real crazy and do a bridged 6-port and do internal work so it can rev 10k+ rpms but that takes money.
    You could also do what i'm currently in the process of doing a which would be turbo'ing the n/a motor. people say it cost to much but that really depends on where you look for parts and who you know total for turbo setup is around 1500.00 for parts but i have friends that can weld and machine so it'll cost more if you have someone else do the fabing for you. fc3s.org is currently in the making of a N/A trubo kit but is in the testing stages so no real sure when it's coming out- you can wait if you want. Now with the turbo n/a setup at 10psi your looking at around 270 whp and with the fast spool with the n/a rotors it makes for a killer street setup. You'll be hitting 12's in 1/4 and day.
    Then there is the motor swap, there are a few options here also. Youi can 1) do TII swap, 2) 13bre 3)20b swap
    1 will cost you pending on parts you have, mods you want ect... anywhere from 1000 up. 2 minimal you're looking at around 4k and up. 3 you're looking at 10k and up.
    that should aswer your question on what to do for more power

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    • #17
      Something to remeber about all rotory motors and the reason why FD's (and for some rotorys in general) get a bad rap is because they are never cooled properly. A rotory is a very reliable and powerful engine if kept properly cooled with large radiators, oil coolers and if turboed intercoolers. This are hot motors.

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      • #18
        ^ especially FD's, since the engine bay really has no open/free space for the air to move around and cool down the engine bay.

        also, i believe the 13B-RE is actually the two-rotor Cosmo engine, the 13B-REW is the FD motor. i'd say stick with getting a S5 TII motor at best, if you want to run turbo, but I myself am going to keep running my S5 N/A (and shooting for around 190-200rwhp).

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        • #19
          how much do 13bt's go for?

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          • #20
            13B-REW was shared by the 3rd gen 7 and the basic cosmo. The classy cosmo had the 3 rotor 20B.

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            • #21
              the 2-rotor Cosmo was N/A if I'm not mistaken, so I don't think that it's the 13B-REW. i've always heard the Cosmo (not the 20B) being referred to as 13B-RE. i've been wrong once or twice before though.

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              • #22
                ^ ummm no the 13b-RE is twin turbo and comes with 233 hp. Main differences between the RE and REW are the ports, the RE has huge intake ports compared to the REW but the axhaust ports are really small compared to the REW and is angled different which if you port the RE you might as well get REW housings due to the timing actually interrupt the ahxaust flow. Small differences are interlnal like bearing, housing coating material, and stationary gears are better in the REW.

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                • #23
                  i have the exact question in mind. i saw ppl at fc3s.com have paxton supercharger on fc, is that any good?

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                  • #24
                    i'm pretty sure the FD has 255hp...

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                    • #25
                      look dude honestly you should keep that motor get a street port on it full exhaust lsd suspension lightened flywheel and aftermarket computer and get it tuned dont do it ur self!! and then have you some fun dude all you need is a nice street port in a non turbo and some exhaust and a intake and your kool dude im tellin oyu get the stuff that i listed and have fun dude and dont try to spend too much i reccomend u get a haltech but ehhh its your choice on the computer...by the way the rotary power drift car has a haltech sooo i mean its a good program...

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                      • #26
                        i think the cosmos was turbo im pretty sure of it *Censored**Censored**Censored**Censored* maybe it was twin i really cant remember ill look when i get to the shop...

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by DONKEY_WEAR
                          i think the cosmos was turbo im pretty sure of it *Censored**Censored**Censored**Censored* maybe it was twin i really cant remember ill look when i get to the shop...
                          i know for a fact that there was a boxy Cosmo that was a N/A two-rotor. what i don't know is if it's motor was called a 13B-RE or not. the Eunos Cosmo 90+ could have a 3 rotor twin turbo engine called the 20B, but it only came with a automatic transmission. Fortunately, the TII tranny bolts up to the 20B.

                          anyways, i'll have to agree with you on the engine setup, although a haltech is overdoing it for a N/A rotary. just get an S-AFC or any fuel piggyback that you may prefer, and you'll be fine. up the secondary injectors, full exhaust, good intake, street port, and you'll be rolling. i also recommend getting a S5 intake manifold/fuel rails (unless of course, you already have a S5). port the throttle body too, if you need some more power after that.

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                          • #28
                            The cosmo basic package was offered with a 13b 2 rotor engine. the "upgraded" package had the 20b with 280 ps on a twi nturbo set up.

                            Remove those turbos and the 20b makes 250 hp (says a lot about those turbos- japan dealers have this "unofficial" hp range) and with porting can be easily brought up to over 300 hp.

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                            • #29
                              i dunno about the "ps" conversion from "hp", but the specs I got from Brad on his 20B Cosmo is that it's got 313hp and 308lb/ft of torque.

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                              • #30
                                Its damn near the same- 1ps is like .98 hp

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