alway good to see demostic cars in driftin... ...keep all of us updated...
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Originally posted by 03DSGSnakeDV,
Definately look into Maximum Motorsports for suspension.
Also, http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...&highlight=xmp
Based on that link, it looks like if I ever had a Stang I wouldnt go ANYWHERE NEAR XMP.
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Originally posted by DV19Thanks for the encouraging words... I've got some video of the last event... I just have to figure out how to get it up.....
Stay tuned....
DV
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Man this guy rocks. If you ever get the chance to meet Doug, talk to him. I have yet to meet a more cooler, down to earth guy willing to bend over backwards to answer any questions in my life. Also he rocks it out on track. This guy puts forth 110% on everything he does. Sponsers listen up, this guy will perform for ya. Trust that.
Rock on Doug.
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Congrats on the good finish. Nice to see a competitive real-world 'Stang out there.
I'm sure Kenny Brown has you pointed in the right direction, but here's some ideas to get the 'ole noggin working. I'm curious as to what bracing you've got, whether you're running stock-style front/rear suspension or an a-arm/torque arm setup, and if you're running poly or rubber bushings.
--Advanced weight reduction- tubular k-member saves 75lbs, Explorer al block saves 90, but you may have to make new motor mounts & upgrade to coilovers. Fiberglass bodyparts aren't as light as c/f, but they're still alot lighter than steel and tons cheaper than c/f.
--Chassis- Weld the torque boxes on the outside and reinforce 'em on the inside with battle boxes & get some good subframe connectors. These 2 mods can be done for under 200 bucks. Strut tower bars and k-member bracing would be icing on the cake. Seam welding & a good cage are other more advanced, expenive avenues but if you can do it yourself you can save alot of money.
Supension- Steeda has their X2 balljoints and bumpsteer kit to help correct geometry on lowered 'Stangs. Adjustable shocks & lowering springs, plus upgraded rear control arms & better bushings would get you a good basic supsension. Ask CrazyHawaiin about his new weight-jack system.
--Engine- You can go either na/force induction. Either way will be pricey to get big power, but you should see around 300hp w/a set of cams & a good tune. Deeper gears would give the 'Stang some more kicks. If you really want to open the wallet: Explorer aluminum blockw/forged internals, positive-displacement blower (turbo is the way to go if you can swing the $$, but a blower is cheaper and easier), ported heads, cams, good oil pan w/baffles for oil control & a windage tray. You should be easily hit 400fwhp , if not 500 with this combo, plus have gobs of low-end torque.
--driveline- Probably want to look into upgrading the factory trak-lock to something a little better, but if you take care of it and keep fresh fluid in there it'll probably last a while. Get a good clutch to hold the power. Now if you crank up the power you might want to start looking at better transmissions like Tremec and G-Force to hold the power, plus a stout rearend & good driveshaft.
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Originally posted by 03DSGSnakeDV, you know of anyone out drifting an IRS Mustang? I have one but don't know if it would be the ideal setup. I think a stick axle might be an easier setup..
Originally posted by Ghost of DuluthMan this guy rocks. If you ever get the chance to meet Doug, talk to him. I have yet to meet a more cooler, down to earth guy willing to bend over backwards to answer any questions in my life. Also he rocks it out on track. This guy puts forth 110% on everything he does. Sponsors listen up, this guy will perform for ya. Trust that. Rock on Doug.
Originally posted by TsunamiCongrats on the good finish. Nice to see a competitive real-world 'Stang out there.
I'm sure Kenny Brown has you pointed in the right direction, but here's some ideas to get the 'ole noggin working. I'm curious as to what bracing you've got, whether you're running stock-style front/rear suspension or an a-arm/torque arm setup, and if you're running poly or rubber bushings.
--Advanced weight reduction- tubular k-member saves 75lbs, Explorer al block saves 90, but you may have to make new motor mounts & upgrade to coilovers. Fiberglass body parts aren't as light as c/f, but they're still a lot lighter than steel and tons cheaper than c/f.
--Chassis- Weld the torque boxes on the outside and reinforce 'em on the inside with battle boxes & get some good subframe connectors. These 2 mods can be done for under 200 bucks. Strut tower bars and k-member bracing would be icing on the cake. Seam welding & a good cage are other more advanced, expensive avenues but if you can do it yourself you can save a lot of money.
Suspension- Steeda has their X2 balljoints and bumpsteer kit to help correct geometry on lowered 'Stangs. Adjustable shocks & lowering springs, plus upgraded rear control arms & better bushings would get you a good basic suspension. Ask CrazyHawaiin about his new weight-jack system.
--Engine- You can go either na/force induction. Either way will be pricey to get big power, but you should see around 300hp w/a set of cams & a good tune. Deeper gears would give the 'Stang some more kicks. If you really want to open the wallet: Explorer aluminum blockw/forged internals, positive-displacement blower (turbo is the way to go if you can swing the $$, but a blower is cheaper and easier), ported heads, cams, good oil pan w/baffles for oil control & a windage tray. You should be easily hit 400fwhp , if not 500 with this combo, plus have gobs of low-end torque.
--driveline- Probably want to look into upgrading the factory trak-lock to something a little better, but if you take care of it and keep fresh fluid in there it'll probably last a while. Get a good clutch to hold the power. Now if you crank up the power you might want to start looking at better transmissions like Tremec and G-Force to hold the power, plus a stout rearend & good driveshaft.
I am running KB Sub-frame connectors, their Strut Tower Brace, Adjustable Upper & Lower Rear Control Arms, K-member & Lower Front A-frames. I haven’t welded up the “boxes” yet but I will be doing so over the winter as well as doing some seem-welding. To help with “bump” I use Baer Tie-rods and I run KB Coil-over kits on adjustable KONI dampers. My rear end is handled by a TracTech Diff and Moser Axles caped off by big Baer Brakes..... The Motor is where I’m in trouble. The car works very well but with a stock motor I can only do so much....... I’m desperately looking for an Engine builder who will help me with this but I’ve yet to find one so far..... I’ve had a couple of them show interest in my project but only if I can get them ink in one of the major mags.... and unfortunately I don’t have the kind of juice to pull that off....... I know we could run with the “Pro” cars if we had the power but I’ve pretty much spent everything I’ve got getting the car to this point...... Hopefully help will arrive soon....... Keep you fingers crossed........
Thanks,
DV
Last edited by DV19; 09-19-2005, 03:54 PM.
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Originally posted by DV19Thanks for all the tips....
Sounds like it's a well put-together machine. If you're having hp problems you could try gears. Somehwere in between 3:73 & 4:10 should do the trick. You could try the sauce, although the age old debate of "it'll kill the motor" vs "not if it's built right" rages to this day. If you can get sponsored by a blower company, like Magnacharger or Paxton, you might be able to snag a kit that'd put you over 400hp. The ElCamino boys post here, so you might see if they've got any info that could help you out.
P.S. drop by the domestic drifting forums athttp://www.driftingforums.com/phpBB2...3921c9286e83fe
It's a place for grassroots domestic drifters to exchange information, seeing is how nobody has built/drifted 'Stangs & Camaros forever like they have Silvias.
'Snake as far as I know of there shouldn't be any problems with the '03 Cobra IRS. Several Terminators have went 9's on stock irs, the issue seems to be broken halfshafts when you've that much hp. Your average pulley/chip/xhaust Cobra or N/A GT shouldn't have a problem, but drifting is stressful on halfshafts so that would definitely be an area you'll want to look at if you're pushing big hp. The IRS does have tradeoffs of over 100lb weight increase plus it's expensive. The solid rear axle is a little bit more durable, it's lighter and it's alot simpler (read: easier to work on), so alot of guys roll it.
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Originally posted by TsunamiNp. Tuning 'Stangs is a dream of mine.
Sounds like it's a well put-together machine. If you're having hp problems you could try gears. Somehwere in between 3:73 & 4:10 should do the trick. You could try the sauce, although the age old debate of "it'll kill the motor" vs "not if it's built right" rages to this day. If you can get sponsored by a blower company, like Magnacharger or Paxton, you might be able to snag a kit that'd put you over 400hp. The ElCamino boys post here, so you might see if they've got any info that could help you out.
P.S. drop by the domestic drifting forums athttp://www.driftingforums.com/phpBB2...3921c9286e83fe
It's a place for grassroots domestic drifters to exchange information, seeing is how nobody has built/drifted 'Stangs & Camaros forever like they have Silvias.
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