Tweet
i would do the rb swap myself...more power...
and you can do things to even the weight
and you can do things to even the weight
-
-
Well I can tell ya I would put just basic stock engine back in. At the same time you can learn to drift/drive and buy your SR on the side. Now adays these engines are really getting old. you need to build them before dropping them in. Basics I would say would be sleeves(stock sleeves break down after years of running), rods, pistons, cams, valves and springs, and then put a thicker headgasket back on.
After finish the build put the stock turbo back on and start going up on your power from there!!
Now if you really have some MONEY you can always order a Tomei SR20det for a small amount of 16K or go crazy mad and buy their RB26 and drop in there for 20K....but obcourse noone that is not rich could afford those!!!!
you can pick up a blown engine for little of nothing everywhere in the US. I would start with one of those and then work up from there!!
And don't fall for some of the swap shops!!Comment
-
I'd rather go the KA-T option. It'll be a lot cheaper to replace a blown up KA over a blown up SR. Gearboxes for the KA are also more plentiful.Comment
-
gearboxes are not a prob. all know that with SR's if you go over 350PS you need a new tranny. (Guro preferably) but if you don't have money like that then you get a CA mission.....they can take some power. I know of a few People here in Okinawa that run Rb25 trannies also. those are extremely stuff!!!Originally posted by DriftKE70Comment
-
I'm not sure what some of you guys are saying due to poor grammar, but I think I am getting the main ideas.
KA vs SR for cost:
This depends on the power that you want to make.
If you're looking at getting 200-250 at the wheels, a KA in good condition with low miles on 6 or 8 lbs of boost will make that peak power with added low end torque because of the higher displacement for less than the cost of an SR swap.
Here is a dyno of a KA-T using XAT Racing's Stage 1:
This sort of power is $4500 installed and tuned. If you were to try to do it yourself you could save a good amount of money, but you would still need proper dyno tuning.
I don't have a dyno graph, but the same amount of power from the same shop (Stage I SR) is between $6100 and $6300 installed and tuned.
If you're looking to make 400-500 at the wheels, you would probably be better off financially with an SR. Although KA's still are a few Gs less (from a shop) to reach a high horsepower mark, they don't like to be boosted more than about 8 lbs without pistons, rods, etc. With proper internals, KA's can make upwards of 400hp with a much flatter torque curve than SR, but although both motors need substantial work to make this much power the SR has been engineered to sustain more boosted power than the KA and is often much more reliable than the boosted KA.
Bottom line - KA Turbo will make a torquier curve for less initial cost, but reliability will be somewhat less than that of an SR.
Turbo iron block will always hold more power than a comparably engineered aluminum blockIn additoin, weight difference between iron block and aluminum block is almost nominal when you're talking about motors of decent size (2l+), especially if they are turbo. The block and head are only 2 conponents of many in a motor, and although iron and aluminum have very different weights, you still have to consider the weight of the turbo(s), internals, transmission, coolant displacement, pulleys, accessories, etc.
As for SR vs KA transmissions - you can use an SR bell housing on a KA transmission, so don't even worry about it.Comment
-
that is it you have it.
but I have to comment though that you can get a great curve from a SR but you need that Stroker kit.............AND MAN IS THAT EXPENSIVE!!!!!!!!!Comment
-
go the rb25 man, they are alot more powerfull than a sr20det and have a huge tuning capacity, the weight diffrence is not an issue with good coilovers the extra 500cc makes all the diffrenceComment
Comment