I curbed my car when it was stock because it understeered, i was hopind the coilovers would correct the problem ...
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S13 Mad Understeer
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I think there were an old post or two that covered methods to change handling to what you want. A couple quick searchs may find them.
Anyways, in the most basic sense:
To get more front grip(no additional $$$)
- Stickier tires up front, slipperier tires in rear
- Less front tire pressure, more rear tire pressure
- Remove stock front swaybar
To get more front grip(additional $$$)
- Softer front spring rates/stiffer rear spring rates
- Smaller front swaybar/bigger rear swaybar
- *Stiffer front shocks/softer rear shocks
*should really match springs for proper dampening(to keep the wheels on the ground)
The free ones can help...to a point. In reality, you really need to set up the suspension differently to really fix the problem. Once you're using the right springs and swaybars, the car will handle like you want. After that, everything else is fine tuning: tire pressures, alignment adjustments, etc...
I'm not exactly sure what you bought so I can't really say how you may change it. Looking quickly online, it looks like a full set, adjustable shocks plus springs, 448lbs/in front, 336lbs/in rear. If this is what you got, you may want to change springs a little. The big 448 to 336 difference will cause a bit of understeer. You'll either need to go softer in the front or stiffer in the rear. Also, removing the stock front swaybar will help too. You might want to invest in a nice fat rear swaybar if you plan on keeping those springs. A big rear swaybar will help offset the understeer issue created by the springs. I'd almost suggest just switching the front and rear springs around if possible to give you a bit of oversteer, just not sure how safe that would be. You may find your rear end coming out a little too easy. It might actually turn out pretty neutral with the stock front swaybar though.
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Good point actually. Technique changes can get around problems like understeer. Feint can make any car go sideways, lol. Also try some light braking into corners to get a little more weight forward and onto the front tires for grip. You could even try a quick jab on the brake just before turning to move a lot of weight forward for turning traction. With the brake released, you'll have full steering ability and the added weight transfered to the front. It's a little unlike the previous mention of more of a continuous braking. That can hold weight forward through a duration of time but it also uses up some steering ability for braking. The combination of braking and feinting can work wonders once you get used to them.
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Originally posted by RPS13PILOT
I curbed my car when it was stock because it understeered, i was hopind the coilovers would correct the problem ...
Buying fully adjustable coilovers will not make up for bad driving. In fact if you dont know how to set them up it could hurt performance.
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Interesting. I've never heard of a car that understeered so heavily that it hit a curb through no fault of the driver. Methinks the driver needs to rethink his techniques and tweak his coilovers more. (Preferably with the help of someone more in the know.)
SMC, you said "a worn down tire could easily produce more grip then even a higher quality tire thats not as worn down." I disagree, as the tread compound has the biggest effect on grip, not tread squirm. (Tread squirm is the tendency of a tire's treadblocks to begin to "fold over" under lateral loading.) Also, a worn-down tire might have a higher aspect ratio and thus taller sidewalls which deflect more under loading, decreasing contact patch. (In addition, the sidewall construction might be less stiff.)
Just for fun, let's compare BFG Touring T/As (205/60/14) with Falken Azenis Sports. (195/60/14) My BFGs were MUCH less grippy with no tread than the Azenis Sports with full tread. Why? Because the Azenis Sports had stiffer sidewalls and a much more sticky tread compound. Also, both tires lost traction the balder they got, due to too many heat cycles, oxidation of the rubber, and an increase in compound hardness.Last edited by GRiDRaceTech; 07-22-2004, 06:44 PM.
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Sounds like all you need is seat time. If you're under the impression you "wasted money on an s13" and you're going to go ahead and get a hachi because your friend can clear the same corner at a higher speed, go ahead and donate that car to me. I could use another S chassis project car, or I could find someone that would appreciate it and give it a good home.
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Originally posted by GRiDRaceTech
With my new tires, all I had to do was scrub 'em a bit to get the mould release agent off them. I would say that after a mile of 7/10ths driving, they were agent-free.
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I have a RPS13 (that's the right name for the hatchback, right?).
Can't say that I have any big problems with understeer on dry surface... Maybe your entry is too low?
High entry speed, turn-in with a quick tap on the brakes followed by counter-steer and throttle works for me
On slippery surface it understeers alot though! Then I have to use shift-lock and e-brake instead...
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