Good Drift Cars

[Mr.Dorifto]

[ToplessFC3Sman]

RB24DET? They made a 2.4 L version? I thought it was the RB25DET, and then there are turbo-ed KA's as well as the occasional CA18DET

[GRiDRaceTech]

... what is the point of that? Why should we trust you? Who are you? Why is it absolutely necessary to tell us mostly vague opinions about cars most of us already either know about or know how to learn about?

I've noticed random posting becoming common... don't do it.

[CrazyHawaiian]

Yeah I dunno, one of my drift cars is automatic and I wouldnt consider myself lazy.

[BooZTT]

Wrong.

1. RWD
2. Good LSD
3. Decent power (notice I said decent..not 6 billion RWHP)
4. Shokujo (coil-overs)
5. Tires to fit your driving style (and hipari tire at that "stretched tire")
6. Balls (but that's for you..not the car)

These are the "BASIC" things to me. Not any specific car type in general..but the REAL things I feel should be requirements.

[ACDSupra7]

You left alot of stuff out man. Like the DTSS on an FC. Or the fact that my MA70 Supra makes a better drift car than the SW20 T_T

[Mr.Dorifto]

wooops

of fuk your right i did leave *Censored**Censored**Censored**Censored* out like LSD of fuk im stupid

[raging panda]

Dude, you cant post this stuff and have people take it as fact.

Who are you to say that turbos are better than superchargers? Trust you? What first hand experience do you have with this? Neither one is better than another, both have their strengths and weaknesses, and just because everything in japan is turbochargerd ( i know its a generalization) doesnt mean its the greatest thing in the world.

The SW20 makes a better downhill drifter? How do you know that? What makes it better? The car doesnt really have any better weight distribution than a S2000 or RX7, they are all pretty close.

As for all the mistakes with the engine codes, there was no rb24, there was a 20, 25, and 26 and in australia a Sohc 30, but no 24. There was the USDM KA 24, a really bad *Censored**Censored**Censored* engine even though everyone likes to talk it down, but no RB24. As for the AE101 engine, its really good but a better swap would be the AE111 engine, doesnt use a maf, its map so you can run open throttle bodies. There is also the AE92 engine swap, a little power bump compared to the stock ae86 engine, but much easier since less wires are involved. RB20 in an ae86 doesnt really seem like a good idea to me since the engine weighs a ton because its cast iron, but if drag racing is your thing, its a good idea but a 1jz or 2jz would be a better idea.

As for all the basics you cover, lsd is a good one you missed, but everyone forget a bucket seat. A comfortable position while you are driving is very important because if you cant control yourself in the car, how can you control the car. A racing seat is a very good idea even before you get suspension. You can drift a stock car and do well.

Also about the tires thing, why would you buy a good set of tires just to wear them down and "make them semi-grippy and semi-slippery" that doesnt even make sense. A good idea if you are really serious about practicing drift is to use the cheapest or free tires you can get. Getting loose is the first step, and once you learn how to do that consistently, then you can step up to a tire that will give you grip while sliding. Dont waste good tires when you are learning as they wont do anything for you.

You did get the order of importance for parts pretty close, car, suspension, wheels/tires, then power and body kit. Add lsd before suspension and a racing seat before that and you got yourself a pretty good car. I would also like to mention that suspension also includes the chassis itself, like a roll cage and bracings.

[Toycoma]

Good drift cars..............?

[SR_power19]

lol oh god.......you're probably 13 so i won't flame.Mods please Close this thread.

[Xantos]

excuse me? why in gods name is a turbo better than super. super has no turbo lag, no ugly SBV sound, and is more often than not cheaper than turbo's. The only reason i can think that a super is worse is if you got a turbo of the same PSI (which would cost more) because you'd get a higher HP, but only because the super is belt driven, unless centrifical buts thats a whole different ballpark, meaning it slightly robs some higher rpm horsepower; however it comes of the line with more torque and horsepower than a turbo because of the lack of turbo lag. so unless you can give me an extremely good reason to get a turbo i'll be sticking a super on my first car!

[raging panda]

you need to look into turbos some more. There is a reason everyone and their mom is now using turbos and not superchargers. You mentioned that s/c are easier to install? How is that. S/c require a bracket or custom intake manifold to hold them to the engine, and then you must line up the pulley to the other pullies on the engine, which then means you need to either get custom belts, or add another pulley to the crank pulley and then another custom belt anyways. You did say that s/c take some of the engines power to run, which means less power in the end compared to a turbo. Also, s/c is regulated to what it can do depending on its pulley. You use a smaller pulley to get response but then you sacrifice top end because the s/c cannot push any more air, and a larger to get big boost with some lag. i dont know what a sbv is, but if you meant blow off valve, then you really do need one if it is not directly bolted onto the head. You say the cetrifical is a different ball park, but a centrifical is nothing but a belt driven turbo. Same concept, with the same restrictions as a turbo. I'm not coming down on s/c, because they have their place and are very good power adders, but there are too many good points to turbos compared to s/c and it really depends on your applications.

Turbos have their share of problems too. You need to make a manifold if you engine doesnt have one made for it. You need to tap your engine for oil feed/return lines if it wasn't originally intended for turbo. running piping is the funnest thing either, but not terribly hard. There is lag in turbos, but with the right sizing depending on your power goals, turbos can be lag free. Same problems end up on the turbos as s/c though. Get a small turbo, no lag but also the turbo chokes up top. Get a big turbo, lots of lag off the start, but tons of power.

both of these always need additional fuel if you are pushing a good amount of boost, and both require fabrication if there is not kit for your application.

[Mark_Logan]

Super Vs Turbo

Heres a good link that hits a few points. Though not too comprehensive it can give a good perspective on the key attributes that each power adder finds it strength through.

http://www.superchargersonline.com/content.asp?ID=19

And PS. I know its on superchargersonline.com and yeah, I've already thought it may be a wee bit biased :P

[mranlet]

A good drift car to me = anything that rolls under its own power!

-MR

[RallyGT]

How many times does this have to be said.....
Its not the CAR its the DRIVER!